Take your new bathroom and turn back time to Vintage bathroom remodel

Take your new bathroom and turn back time to Vintage If you are searching for great vintage bathroom remodel ideas you are in the right place. Remodeling any room is difficult when you love more than one style, but vintage bathrooms are even harder to recreate when you have so many small details to remember. With this vintage remodel you will have to worry about everything matching so perfectly.

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Mix and match storage units in your vintage bathroom remodel. The distressed table fits perfect into this retro bathroom.

Bathroom-Mirrors

Arranging a mixture of different size and shaped antique mirrors is a fabulous way to draw in light to your small vintage bathroom remodel.

Vintage bathroom designs, which are easily adapted to showcase the style of one or more eras, are equally at home in historical mansions, coastal cottages, city brownstones, and suburban ranches. Explore our vintage bathroom ideas to find inspiration for crafting bathrooms that spill over with collected charm and period-perfect profiles. Take a look and see how beaded-board wainscoting separated from painted upper walls by substantial chair rails partner with floors crafted from tiny octagonal porcelain or marble tiles to set the stage for early-20th-century bathroom designs. Take vintage bathrooms to the retro side by using floor patterns of 1950 and claw foot tubs.

vinatge inspired bathroom

The fastest way to get that vintage bathroom remodel look you desire? Install vanities crafted from vintage dressers or antique sideboards, and use heirloom armoires or weathered farm cabinets for linen storage. You can easily create your own vanity with a vintage dresser, porcelain sink and vintage mirror. Vintage doesn’t have to mean old, you can choose stock or custom vanities that sport decorative moldings, raised embellishments, and distressed finishes such as the chalkboard effect. Cast-iron towel hooks, porcelain-handle faucets, and reproduction lighting -- along with antique bathroom fixtures like refurbished claw-foot tubs, pedestal sinks, and stainless-steel medicine cabinets to will help you recreate a vintage bathroom's age-old leanings and ageless attitude.

antique bathroom vanity

Pictured above is an antique serpentine dresser and mirror purposed into a vintage vanity.

Bathroom décor & design fails and flops

Bathroom décor & design fails and flops Avoid making common mistakes when it comes to decorating and designing your bathroom remodel. Ever walk into a bathroom and gasp at the thought that they paid money for the décor and design? Don’t let other people think the same about your bathroom. We understand that you may not have a large budget, but there are ways to spend little money and make a big impact.

corner-bath

When most bathroom remodel designs are started, the shower and vanity and toilet are talked about and planned for, but don’t forget about planning for storage. Storage should be carefully planned into your design from day one. Where will you store clean towels, your toiletries, toothbrushes, etc.? By planning for your storage you can avoid a décor fail when you need to squeeze an oversized towel cupboard into a small corner once the bathroom remodel is complete. More storage is better than not enough storage. The great thing about remodel companies today is the fact that almost anything can be custom built or built in to your house. Custom vanities and storage compartments can be designed for your remodel needs and taste, and even be hidden or turned into art.

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sliding-bathroom-mirrored-storage-ideas

Let’s get to the point and start talking about color and size. The size of your bathroom should be taken into account when choosing a color. Dark color schemes will make a bathroom harder to see in, which is not good for makeup application or for getting ready, as well as make the room appear smaller. If you have a large bathroom to design and decorate, using dark colors against a pale or neutral color pattern are acceptable. For small bathrooms think of light or pastel colors, and amplify light. You can always add bold décor items later to the space and your style may change, so keep the color simple.

bold bathroom contemporary-bathroom (2)

Common Remodeling Terminology

Common remodeling terminology Is it just me or are there too many terms and construction words that make remodeling even more confusing than it has to be? Before you take on a remodeling project, get hip with the words you will hear on a daily basis. This may help you get what you want with your project and prevent a complete remodel fail. Plus your remodel team will be very impressed when you know just what they are talking about.

A/C - An abbreviation for air conditioner or air conditioning.

A/C Condenser - The outside fan unit of the air conditioning system. It removes the heat from the Freon gas, 'turns' the gas back into a liquid, and pumps the liquid back to the coil in the furnace.

A/C Disconnect - The main electrical ON-OFF switch near the A/C condenser.

ABS - A type of black plastic pipe commonly used for waste water lines.

Aerator - The round screened screw-on tip of a sink spout. It mixes water and air for a smooth flow.

Aggregate - A mixture of sand and stone and a major component of concrete.

Air Space - The area between insulation facing and interior of exterior wall coverings.

Allowance - A sum of money set aside in the construction contract for items which have not been selected and specified in the construction contract. For example, selection of tile as a flooring may require an allowance for an underlayment material, or an electrical a

Ampere - A unit of electrical current or volume--see 'Voltage.' Most homes have an electrical service 'entrance' package of 125 or 200 amps. Some older homes have 60 or 100 amp 'entrances'.

Appraisal - An expert valuation of property.

Architect - One who has completed a course of study in building and design, and is licensed by the state as an architect. One who draws up plans and sometimes supervises the construction of homes.

Asbestos - A common form of magnesium silicate used in various construction products due to its stability and resistance to fire. Asbestos exposure, by inhaling loose asbestos fibers, is associated with various forms of lung disease.

Assessment - A tax levied on a property, or a value placed on the worth of a property.

Assumption - Allows a buyer to assume responsibility for an existing loan instead of getting a new loan. The assumption may have to be approved by the lender.

Attic Ventilators - Screened openings in houses to allow for ventilation of an attic space.

B

Backing - Frame lumber installed between the wall studs to give additional support for drywall or an interior trim related item, such as handrail brackets, cabinets, and towel bars. In this way, items are screwed and mounted into solid wood rather than weak drywall

Backout - Work the framing contractor does after the mechanical (heating, plumbing & electrical) subcontractors finish their phase of work at the rough stage prior to insulating to get the home ready for a municipal frame inspection. Generally, the framing contract

Backset - The term backset is used to explain the distance from the edge of the door to the center of the hole drilled for your knob, lever or deadbolt.

Baffles - Device to help achieve a ventilation space between insulation and roof sheathing. It helps assure air flow from the eave vents in attics and cathedral ceilings.

Ballast - A transformer that steps up the voltage in a florescent lamp.

Balusters - Vertical members in a railing used between a top rail and bottom rail or the stair treads. Sometimes referred to as 'pickets' or 'spindles.'

Balustrade - The rail, posts and vertical balusters along the edge of a stairway or elevated walkway.

Band Joist - Vertical member that forms the perimeter of a floor system in which the floor joists tie in. Also known as the rim joist.

Barrel Vault - A vaulted ceiling of semi-circular shape, creating a dome-like appearance.

Bay window - A composite of three windows, usually made up of a large center unit and two flanking units at 30- or 45-degree angles to the wall.

Beam - A horizontal framing member designed to carry a load from a set of joists or a roof and spanning an open space. Beams are typically 6 inches by 6 inches or 4 inches by 10 inches or larger.

Bi-Level - A home that has two levels which are split to two half levels.

Blue Print(s) - A type of copying method often used for architectural drawings. Usually used to describe the drawing of a structure that is prepared by an architect or designer for the purpose of design and planning, estimating, securing permits and actual construction.

Bond or Bonding - An amount of money that must be on deposit with a governmental agency in order to secure a contractor's license. If, at the conclusion of a project, there is dispute about the work of the contractor or unpaid bills, the bond may be used for payment.

Bonded - An amount of money deposited with a Government Agency which greatly exceeds the minimum requirement.

Bonus Room - A room with no specifically designated function, unlike a living room, bedroom, or kitchen. This room is not included in the initial square footage.

Bottom Plate - The lowest horizontal member of a wall which rests on the rough floor, to which the studding is nailed.

Braced Framing - A construction method in two-story homes in which the frame is reinforced with posts and braces.

Brick Veneer - A vertical facing of brick laid against and fastened to sheathing of a framed wall or tile wall construction.

Builder's Risk Insurance - Insurance coverage on a construction project during construction, including extended coverage that may be added for the contract for the customer's protections.

Building Code - A comprehensive set of laws that controls the construction or remodeling of a home or other structure.

Bull Nose Drywall - Rounded drywall corners.

C

Cantilever - A projecting structure supported on one end, such as a balcony.

Casing - Molding of various widths, thickness and shapes applied to the framework of window and door units.

Caulking - A flexible material used to seal a gap between two surfaces e.g. between pieces of siding or the corners in tub walls.

Cavity - The empty space between studs or joists to place insulation batts.

Central Air Conditioning - A system which uses ducts to distribute cooled and/or dehumidified air to more than one room or uses pipes to distribute chilled water to heat exchangers in more than one room, and is not plugged into an electrical convenience outlet.

Change Order - A written construction document which modifies the plans and specifications and/or the price of the construction contract.

Chip board - A manufactured wood panel composed of 1- and 2-inch wood chips and glue. It is often incorrectly used as a substitute for plywood. Chip board is also known as OSB.

Circuit Breaker - A device that looks like a switch and is located inside the electrical panel or circuit breaker box in a home or building. A regular circuit breaker switch is designed to shut off the power to the portion of the home it controls and also limits the amount of current to the circuit that is connected to it.

Coffered Ceiling - A ceiling with recessed square panels, bordered with trim for ornamental purposes.

Concrete Board - A panel composed of concrete and fiberglass usually used as a tile backing material.

Conduit - A tube or duct for enclosing electric wires or other cables.

Construction Contract - A legal document that includes the specifics of what-when-where-how-how much and by whom of a construction project. It usually includes the contractors registration number, a statement of work quality such as 'Standard Practices of the Trades.'

Construction Documents - All drawings, specifications and addenda associated with a specific construction project.

Contractor - One who is licensed to perform construction activities.

CPVC - A type of white plastic pipe sometimes used for water supply lines.

Crawlspace Foundation - The space between the ground and the first floor of a home, usually no higher than four feet.

Crawlspace Vent - An opening to allow the passage of air through the unexcavated area under a first floor. Ideally there should be at least two vents per crawlspace.

Crown Molding - A molding used on cornice or wherever an interior angle is to be covered, especially at the ceiling to wall corner.

D

Daisy Chain - A wiring scheme in which device A is wired to device B, device B is wired to device C, etc. The last device is normally wired to a switch or circuit breaker.

De-humidistat - A control mechanism used to operate a mechanical ventilation system based upon the relative humidity in the home.

Dentil - One of a series of small projecting rectangular blocks forming a molding under an overhang, most common in colonial-style homes.

Designer - One who designs houses, interiors, landscaping or other objects. When utilized in the context of residential construction, it usually suggests that a designer is not a licensed architect.

Dormer - A space protruding from the roof of a house, usually including one or more windows.

Double glazing - Use of two panes of glass in a window to increase energy efficiency and provide other performance benefits.

Draw - The amount of progress billings on a contract that is currently available to a contractor under a contract with a fixed payment schedule.

Dry Rot - A common wood-destroying organism that develops when wood-containing material is exposed to moisture and poor air circulation for at least 6 months. Often and incorrectly referred to as dry rot.

Drywall - A wall finish consisting of a manufactured panel made out of gypsum plaster and encased in a thin cardboard. The panels are nailed or screwed onto the framing and the joints are taped and covered with a 'joint compound'.

Duct - A rigid metal or flexible insulated tube, designed to deliver air to and from a furnace or other air-handling unit.

Ductwork - A system of large tubes, pipes or channels (ducts) designed to deliver air to and from a furnace or other air-handling unit.

E

Earthquake Strap - A metal strap used to secure gas hot water heaters to the framing or foundation of a house. It is intended to reduce the chances of having the water heater fall over in an earthquake, causing a gas leak.

Easement - A formal contract that allows a party to use another party's property for a specific purpose. For instance, a sewer easement might allow one party to run a sewer line through a neighbor’s property.

Eave Vent - Vent opening located in the soffit under the eaves of a house to allow the passage of air through the attic and out the roof vents.

Eaves - The projecting overhang at the lower edge of a roof.

Electrical Rough - Work performed by the Electrical Contractor to the point where all outlet, switch, and fixture boxes are installed, and all electrical wires are run (before insulation and drywall).

Electrical Service Panel - Refers to the high-voltage electrical system’s first point of entry into a home beyond the meter.

Electricity - Provides power for lighting, appliances, and heating & cooling in a home. A meter records usage for billing by your local utility.

Elevations - The exterior view of a home design that shows the position of the house relative to the grade of the land.

Estimating - The process of calculating the cost of a project. This can be either a formal or a quick and imprecise process.

Exterior Envelope - The part of the building that consists of all of the elements protecting it from the elements including roofing, siding, windows, exterior doors, porches, flashing trim, caulking, waterproof decking, venting systems, and chimneys

F

Fascia - Horizontal boards attached to rafter/truss ends at the eaves and along gables. Roof drain gutters are attached to the fascia.

Finials - Also called decorative tips, these may come in different shapes, such as balls or pointed steeples, which attach to the top and bottom of a hinge for decoration. Only some hinges will accept these finials.

Fixed (window) - Non-venting or non-operable.

Fixed Price Contract - A contract with a set price for the work.

Flashing - The building component used to connect portions of a roof, deck, or siding material to another surface such as a chimney, wall, or vent pipe. Often made out of various metals, rubber or tar and is mostly intended to prevent water entry.

Flat Ceiling - A ceiling with no change in elevation.

Footing - Trenches of poured concrete around the perimeter of the house and below each pier or column that supports and distributes the weight of the house to the ground.

Forced Air Heating - A common form of heating with natural gas, propane, oil or electricity as a fuel. Air is heated in the furnace and distributed through a set of metal ducts to various areas of the house.

Frame - The enclosure in which window sash or door panels are mounted.

Framer - The carpenter contractor that installs the lumber and erects the frame, flooring system, interior walls, backing, trusses, rafters, decking, installs all beams, stairs, soffits and all work related to the wood structure of the home.

Framing - The structural wood and/or metal elements of most homes. The floor and ceiling framing is called the joist work. Wall framing is usually made out of 2 inches by 4 inches or 2 inches by 6 inch studs.

French hinged door - Hinged door(s) that has (have) wider panel members around the glass.

French sliding door - Sliding door having wider panel members around the glass, giving the appearance of a French hinged door.

Fungal Wood Rot - A common wood-destroying organism that develops when wood-containing material is exposed to moisture and poor air circulation for at least 6 months. Often and incorrectly referred to as dry rot.

Furring Strip - Flat piece of lumber used to build up an irregular framing to an even surface, either the leveling of a part of a wall or ceiling.

G

GFCI, or GFI - Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter- an ultra sensitive plug designed to shut off all electric current. Used in bathrooms, kitchens, exterior waterproof outlets, garage outlets, and "wet areas". Has a small reset button on the plug.

Gable - The end, upper, triangular area of a home, beneath the roof.

Gate valve - A valve that lets you completely stop—but not modulate—the flow within a pipe.

General Contractor - A contractor who enters into a contract with the owner of a project for the construction of the project and who takes full responsibility for its completion, although the contractor

may enter into subcontracts with others for the performance of specific parts or phases of the project.

Glued Laminated Beam (Glulam) - A structural beam composed of wood laminations or lams. The lams are pressure bonded with adhesives to attain a typical thickness of 1 ½". (It looks like 5 or more 2 X 4's are glued together).

Grade - Ground level, or the elevation at any given point. Also the work of leveling dirt.  Also the designated quality of a manufactured piece of wood.

Grade beam - A foundation wall that is poured @ level with or just below the grade of the earth. An example is the area where the 8' or 16' overhead garage door "block out" is located, or a lower (walk out basement) foundation wall is poured.

Grain - The direction, size, arrangement, appearance, or quality of the fibers in wood.

Grid - The completed assembly of main and cross tees in a suspended ceiling system before the ceiling panels are installed. Also the decorative slats (munton) installed between glass panels.

Ground - Refers to electricity's habit of seeking the shortest route to earth. Neutral wires carry it there in all circuits. An additional grounding wire or the sheathing of the metal-clad cable or conduit—protects against shock if the neutral leg is interrupted.

Ground fault - Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI, GFI) - an ultra sensitive plug designed to shut off all electric current. Used in bathrooms, kitchens, exterior waterproof outlets, garage outlets, and "wet areas". Has a small reset button on the plug.

Groundwater - Water from an aquifer or subsurface water source.

Gyp board - Drywall. Wall board or gypsum- A panel (normally 4' X 8', 10', 12', or 16') made with a core of Gypsum (chalk-like) rock, which covers interior walls and ceilings.

Gypsum plaster - Gypsum formulated to be used with the addition of sand and water for base-coat plaster.

H

Hazard insurance - Protection against damage caused by fire, windstorms, or other common hazards. Many lenders require borrowers to carry it in an amount at least equal to the mortgage.

Header - (a) A beam placed perpendicular to joists and to which joists are nailed in framing for a chimney, stairway, or other opening. (b) A wood lintel. (c) The horizontal structural member over an opening (for example over a door or window).

Hearth - The fireproof area directly in front of a fireplace. The inner or outer floor of a fireplace usually made of brick, tile, or stone.

Heating load - The amount of heating required to keep a building at a specified temperature during the winter, usually 65° F, regardless of outside temperature.

Heat meter - An electrical municipal inspection of the electric meter breaker panel box.

Heat pump - A mechanical device which uses compression and decompression of gas to heat and/or cool a house.

Heat Rough - Work performed by the Heating Contractor after the stairs and interior walls are built. This includes installing all duct work and flue pipes. Sometimes, the furnace and fireplaces are installed at this stage of construction.

Heat Trim - Work done by the Heating Contractor to get the home ready for the municipal Final Heat Inspection. This includes venting the hot water heater, installing all vent grills, registers, air conditioning services, turning on the furnace, installing thermostats, venting ranges and hoods, and all other heat related work.

Hip - A roof with four sloping sides. The external angle formed by the meeting of two sloping sides of a roof.

Hip roof - A roof that rises by inclined planes from all four sides of a building.

Humidifier - An appliance normally attached to the furnace, or portable unit device designed to increase the humidity within a room or a house by means of the discharge of water vapor.

Hurricane clip - Metal straps that are nailed and secure the roof rafters and trusses to the top horizontal wall plate. Sometimes called a Teco clip.

H V A C - An abbreviation for Heat, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning.

I

Incandescent lamp - A lamp employing an electrically charged metal filament that glows at white heat. A typical light bulb.

Index - The interest rate or adjustment standard that determines the changes in monthly payments for an adjustable rate loan.

Infiltration - The passage of air from indoors to outdoors and vice versa; term is usually associated with drafts from cracks, seams or holes in buildings.

Insulation - Any material high in resistance to heat transmission that, when placed in the walls, ceiling, or floors of a structure, and will reduce the rate of heat flow.

Interior finish - Material used to cover the interior framed areas of walls and ceilings.

Irrigation - Lawn sprinkler system.

J

J Channel - Metal edging used on drywall to give the edge a better finished appearance when a wall is not "wrapped" Generally, basement stairway walls have drywall only on the stair side. J Channel is used on the vertical edge of the last drywall sheet.

Joint - The location between the touching surfaces of two members or components joined and held together by nails, glue, cement, mortar, or other means.

Joint cement or Joint compound - A powder that is usually mixed with water and used for joint treatment in gypsum-wallboard finish. Often called "spackle" or drywall mud.

Joist - Wooden 2 X 8's, 10's, or 12's that run parallel to one another and support a floor or ceiling, and supported in turn by larger beams, girders, or bearing walls.

K

Keeper - The metal latch plate in a door frame into which a doorknob plunger latches.

Kilowatt (kw) - One thousand watts. A kilowatt hour is the base unit used in measuring electrical consumption. Also see watt.

Knot - In lumber, the portion of a branch or limb of a tree that appears on the edge or face of the piece.

Laminating - Bonding together two or more layers of materials.

Landing - A platform between flights of stairs or at the termination of a flight of stairs. Often used when stairs change direction. Normally no less than 3 ft. X 3 ft. square.

Lap - To cover the surface of one shingle or roll with another.

Latch - A beveled metal tongue operated by a spring-loaded knob or lever. The tongue's bevel lets you close the door and engage the locking mechanism, if any, without using a key. Contrasts with dead bolt.

Ledger (for a Structural Floor) - The wooden perimeter frame lumber member that bolts onto the face of a foundation wall and supports the wood structural floor.

Ledger strip - A strip of lumber nailed along the bottom of the side of a girder on which joists rest.

Level - True horizontal. Also a tool used to determine level.

Load bearing wall - Includes all exterior walls and any interior wall that is aligned above a support beam or girder. Normally, any wall that has a double horizontal top plate.

Lookout - A short wood bracket or cantilever that supports an overhang portion of a roof.

Mantel - The shelf above a fireplace opening. Also used in referring to the decorative trim around a fireplace opening.

Manufactured wood - A wood product such as a truss, beam, gluelam, microlam or joist which is manufactured out of smaller wood pieces and glued or mechanically fastened to form a larger piece. Often used to create a stronger member which may use less wood. See also Oriented Strand Board.

Masonry - Stone, brick, concrete, hollow-tile, concrete block, or other similar building units or materials. Normally bonded together with mortar to form a wall.

Mastic - A pasty material used as a cement (as for setting tile) or a protective coating (as for thermal insulation or waterproofing).

Metal lath - Sheets of metal that are slit to form openings within the lath. Used as a plaster base for walls and ceilings and as reinforcing over other forms of plaster base.

Millwork - Generally all building materials made of finished wood and manufactured in millwork plants. Includes all doors, window and door frames, blinds, mantels, panel work, stairway components (balusters, rail, etc.), moldings, and interior trim. Does not include flooring, ceiling, or siding.

Miter joint - The joint of two pieces at an angle that bisects the joining angle. For example, the miter joint at the side and head casing at a door opening is made at a 45° angle.

Molding - A wood strip having an engraved, decorative surface.

Mortar - A mixture of cement (or lime) with sand and water used in masonry work.

Muriatic acid - Commonly used as a brick cleaner after masonry work is completed.

N

Nail inspection - An inspection made by a municipal building inspector after the drywall material is hung with nails and screws (and before taping).

Natural finish - A transparent finish which does not seriously alter the original color or grain of the natural wood. Natural finishes are usually provided by sealers, oils, varnishes, water repellent preservatives, and other similar materials.

NEC (National Electrical Code) - A set of rules governing safe wiring methods. Local codes—which are backed by law—may differ from the NEC in some ways.

Neutral wire - Usually color-coded white, this carries electricity from an outlet back to the service panel. Also see hot wire and ground.

Nonbearing wall - A wall supporting no load other than its own weight.

Nosing - The projecting edge of a molding or drip or the front edge of a stair tread.

O

OC (On Center) - The measurement of spacing for studs, rafters, and joists in a building from the center of one member to the center of the next.

Outrigger - An extension of a rafter beyond the wall line. Usually a smaller member nailed to a larger rafter to form a cornice or roof overhang.

Outside corner - The point at which two walls form an external angle, one you usually can walk around.

Overhang - Outward projecting eave-soffit area of a roof; the part of the roof that hangs out or over the outside wall. See also Cornice.

P

Padding - A material installed under carpet to add foot comfort, isolate sound, and to prolong carpet life.

Pad out, pack out - To shim out or add strips of wood to a wall or ceiling in order that the finished ceiling/wall will appear correct.

Paint - A combination of pigments with suitable thinners or oils to provide decorative and protective coatings. Can be oil based or latex water based.

Pallets - Wooden platforms used for storing and shipping material. Forklifts and hand trucks are used to move these wooden platforms around.

Panel - A thin flat piece of wood, plywood, or similar material, framed by stiles and rails as in a door (or cabinet door), or fitted into grooves of thicker material with molded edges for decorative wall treatment.

Paper, building - A general term for papers, felts, and similar sheet materials used in buildings without reference to their properties or uses. Generally comes in long rolls.

Parapet - A wall placed at the edge of a roof to prevent people from falling off.

Parting stop or strip - A small wood piece used in the side and head jambs of double hung windows to separate the upper sash from the lower sash.

Particle board - Plywood substitute made of course sawdust that is mixed with resin and pressed into sheets. Used for closet shelving, floor underlayment, stair treads, etc.

Partition - A wall that subdivides spaces within any story of a building or room.

Paver, paving – Materials, commonly masonry, laid down to make a firm, even surface.

Payment schedule - A pre-agreed upon schedule of payments to a contractor usually based upon the amount of work completed. Such a schedule may include a deposit prior to the start of work. There may also be a temporary 'retainer' (5-10% of the total cost of the job) at the end of the contract for correcting any small items which have not been completed or repaired.

Pedestal - A metal box installed at various locations along utility easements that contain electrical, telephone, or cable television switches and connections.

Penalty clause - A provision in a contract that provides for a reduction in the amount otherwise payable under a contract to a contractor as a penalty for failure to meet deadlines or for failure of the project to meet contract specifications.

Penny - As applied to nails, it originally indicated the price per hundred. The term now series as a measure of nail length and is abbreviated by the letter "d". Normally, 16d (16 "penny") nails are used for framing.

Percolation test or perc. Test - Tests that a soil engineer performs on earth to determine the feasibility of installing a leech field type sewer system on a lot. A test to determine if the soil on a proposed building lot is capable of absorbing the liquid affluent from a septic system.

Performance bond - An amount of money (usually 10% of the total price of a job) that a contractor must put on deposit with a governmental agency as an insurance policy that guarantees the contractors' proper and timely completion of a project or job.

Perimeter drain - 3" or 4" perforated plastic pipe that goes around the perimeter (either inside or outside) of a foundation wall (before backfill) and collects and diverts ground water away from the foundation. Generally, it is "daylighted" into a sump pit inside the home, and a sump pump is sometimes inserted into the pit to discharge any accumulation of water.

Permeability - A measure of the ease with which water penetrates a material.

Permit - A governmental municipal authorization to perform a building process as in:

      Zoning\Use permit - Authorization to use a property for a specific use e.g. a garage, a single family residence etc.

      Demolition permit - Authorization to tear down and remove an existing structure.

      Grading permit - Authorization to change the contour of the land.

      Septic permit - A health department authorization to build or modify a septic system.

      Building permit - Authorization to build or modify a structure.

      Electrical permit - A separate permit required for most electrical work.

      Plumbing permit - A separate permit required for new plumbing and larger modifications of existing plumbing systems.

Pigtails, electrical - The electric cord that the electrician provides and installs on an appliance such as a garbage disposal, dishwasher, or range hood.

Pier - A column of masonry, usually rectangular in horizontal cross section, used to support other structural members. Also see Caisson.

Pigment - A powdered solid used in paint or enamel to give it a color.

Pilot hole - A small-diameter, pre-drilled hole that guides a nail or screw.

Pilot light - A small, continuous flame (in a hot water heater, boiler, or furnace) that ignites gas or oil burners when needed.

Pitch - The incline slope of a roof or the ratio of the total rise to the total width of a house, i.e., a 6-foot rise and 24-foot width is a one-fourth pitch roof. Roof slope is expressed in the inches of rise, per foot of horizontal run.

PITI - Principal, interest, taxes and insurance (the four major components of monthly housing payments).

Plan view - Drawing of a structure with the view from overhead, looking down.

Plate - Normally a 2 X 4 or 2 X 6 that lays horizontally within a framed structure, such as:

      Sill plate - A horizontal member anchored to a concrete or masonry wall.

      Sole plate - Bottom horizontal member of a frame wall.

      Top plate - Top horizontal member of a frame wall supporting ceiling joists, rafters, or other members.

Plenum - The main hot-air supply duct leading from a furnace.

Plot plan - An overhead view plan that shows the location of the home on the lot. Includes all easements, property lines, set backs, and legal descriptions of the home. Provided by the surveyor.

Plough, plow - To cut a lengthwise groove in a board or plank. An exterior handrail normally has a ploughed groove for hand gripping purposes.

Plumb - Exactly vertical and perpendicular.

Plumb bob - A lead weight attached to a string. It is the tool used in determining plumb.

Plumbing boots - Metal saddles used to strengthen a bearing wall/vertical stud(s) where a plumbing drain line has been cut through and installed.

Plumbing ground - The plumbing drain and waste lines that are installed beneath a basement floor.

Plumbing jacks - Sleeves that fit around drain and waste vent pipes at, and are nailed to, the roof sheeting.

Plumbing rough - Work performed by the plumbing contractor after the Rough Heat is installed. This work includes installing all plastic ABS drain and waste lines, copper water lines, bath tubs, shower pans, and gas piping to furnaces and fireplaces. Lead solder should not be used on copper piping.

Plumbing stack - A plumbing vent pipe that penetrates the roof.

Plumbing trim - Work performed by the plumbing contractor to get the home ready for a final plumbing inspection. Includes installing all toilets (water closets), hot water heaters, sinks, connecting all gas pipe to appliances, disposal, dishwasher, and all plumbing items.

Plumbing waste line - Plastic pipe used to collect and drain sewage waste.

Ply - A term to denote the number of layers of roofing felt, veneer in plywood, or layers in built-up materials, in any finished piece of such material.

Plywood - A panel (normally 4' X 8') of wood made of three or more layers of veneer, compressed and joined with glue, and usually laid with the grain of adjoining plies at right angles to give the sheet strength.

Point load - A point where a bearing/structural weight is concentrated and transferred to the foundation.

Portland cement - Cement made by heating clay and crushed limestone into a brick and then grinding to a pulverized powder state.

Post - A vertical framing member usually designed to carry a beam. Often a 4" x 4", a 6" x 6", or a metal pipe with a flat plate on top and bottom.

Post-and-beam - A basic building method that uses just a few hefty posts and beams to support an entire structure. Contrasts with stud framing.

Power vent - A vent that includes a fan to speed up air flow.  Often installed on roofs.

Premium - Amount payable on a loan.

Preservative - Any pesticide substance that, for a reasonable length of time, will prevent the action of wood-destroying fungi, insect borers, and similar destructive agents when the wood has been properly coated or impregnated with it. Normally an arsenic derivative. Chromated Copper Arsenate (CCA) is an example.

Pressure Relief Valve (PRV) - A device mounted on a hot water heater or boiler which is designed to release any high steam pressure in the tank to prevent tank explosions.

Pressure treated wood - Lumber that has been saturated with a preservative.

Primer - The first, base coat of paint when a paint job consists of two or more coats. A first coating formulated to seal raw surfaces and holding succeeding finish coats.

Principal - The original amount of the loan, the capital.

Property survey - A survey to determine the boundaries of your property. The cost depends on the complexity of the survey.

P trap - Curved, "U" section of drain pipe that holds a water seal to prevent sewer gasses from entering the home through a fixtures water drain.

Pump mix - Special concrete that will be used in a concrete pump. Generally, the mix has smaller rock aggregate than regular mix.

Punch list - A list of discrepancies that need to be corrected by the contractor.

Punch out - To inspect and make a discrepancy list.

Putty - A type of dough used in sealing glass in the sash, filling small holes and crevices in wood, and for similar purposes.

PVC or CPVC - Poly Vinyl Chloride-A type of white or light gray plastic pipe sometimes used for water supply lines and waste pipe.

Q

Quarry tile - A man-made or machine-made clay tile used to finish a floor or wall. Generally 6" X  6"  X 1/4" thick.

Quarter round - A small trim molding that has the cross section of a quarter circle.

R

Rabbet - A rectangular longitudinal groove cut in the corner edge of a board or plank.

Radiant heating - A method of heating, usually consisting of a forced hot water system with pipes placed in the floor, wall, or ceiling.  Also electrically heated panels.

Radiation - Energy transmitted from a heat source to the air around it. Radiators actually depend more on convection than radiation.

Radon - A naturally-occurring, heavier than air, radioactive gas common in many parts of the country.  Radon gas exposure is associated with lung cancer. Mitigation measures may involve crawl space and basement venting and various forms of vapor barriers.

Radon system - A ventilation system beneath the floor of a basement and/or structural wood floor and designed to fan exhaust radon gas to the outside of the home.

Rafter - Lumber used to support the roof sheeting and roof loads. Generally, 2 X 10's and 2 X 12's are used. The rafters of a flat roof are sometimes called roof joists.

Rafter, hip - A rafter that forms the intersection of an external roof angle.

Rafter, valley - A rafter that forms the intersection of an internal roof angle. The valley rafter is normally made of double 2-inch-thick members.

Rail - Cross members of panel doors or of a sash. Also, a wall or open balustrade placed at the edge of a staircase, walkway bridge, or elevated surface to prevent people from falling off.  Any relatively lightweight horizontal element, especially those found in fences (split rail).

Railroad tie - Black, tar and preservative impregnated, 6" X 8" and 6'-8' long wooden timber that was used to hold railroad track in place. Normally used as a member of a retaining wall.

Rake - Slope or slanted.

Rake fascia - The vertical face of the sloping end of a roof eave.

Rake siding - The practice of installing lap siding diagonally.

Ranch - A single story, one level home.

Ready mixed concrete - Concrete mixed at a plant or in trucks en route to a job and delivered ready for placement.

Rebar, reinforcing bar - Ribbed steel bars installed in foundation concrete walls, footers, and poured in place concrete structures designed to strengthen concrete. Comes in various thicknesses and strength grade.

Receptacle - An electrical outlet.  A typical household will have many 120 volt receptacles for plugging in lams and appliances and 240 volt receptacles for the range, clothes dryer, air conditioners, etc.

Recording fee - A charge for recording the transfer of a property, paid to a city, county, or other appropriate branch of government.

Redline, red lined prints - Blueprints that reflect changes and that are marked with red pencil.

Reducer - A fitting with different size openings at either end and used to go from a larger to a smaller pipe.

Reflective insulation - Sheet material with one or both faces covered with aluminum foil.

Refrigerant - A substance that remains a gas at low temperatures and pressure and can be used to transfer heat. Freon is an example and is used in air conditioning systems.

Register - A grill placed over a heating duct or cold air return.

Reglaze - To replace a broken window.

Relief valve - A device designed to open if it detects excess temperature or pressure.

Remote - Remote electrical, gas, or water meter digital readouts that are installed near the front of the home in order for utility companies to easily read the home owners usage of the service.

Retaining wall - A structure that holds back a slope and prevents erosion.

Retentions - Amounts withheld from progress billings until final and satisfactory project completion.

R factor or value - A measure of a materials resistance to the passage of heat. New home walls are usually insulated with 4" of batt insulation with an R value of R-13, and a ceiling insulation of R-30.

Ribbon (girt) - Normally a 1 X 4 board let into the studs horizontally to support the ceiling or second-floor joists.

Ridge - The horizontal line at the junction of the top edges of two sloping roof surfaces.

Ridge board - The board placed on the ridge of the roof onto which the upper ends of other rafters are fastened.

Ridge shingles - Shingles used to cover the ridge board.

Rim joist - A joist that runs around the perimeter of the floor joists and home.

Rise - The vertical distance from the eaves line to the ridge. Also the vertical distance from stair tread to stair tread (and not to exceed 7 ½").

Riser - Each of the vertical boards closing the spaces between the treads of stairways.

Riser and panel - The exterior vertical pipe (riser) and metal electric box (panel) the electrician provides and installs at the "Rough Electric" stage.

Road base - An aggregate mixture of sand and stone.

Rock 1, 2, 3 - When referring to drywall, this means to install drywall to the walls and ceilings (with nails and screws), and before taping is performed.

Roll, rolling - To install the floor joists or trusses in their correct place. (To "roll the floor" means to install the floor joists).

Romex - A name brand of nonmetallic sheathed electrical cable that is used for indoor wiring.

Roll roofing - Asphalt roofing products manufactured in roll form. 36-inch wide rolls with and 108 square feet of material. Weights are generally 45 to 90 pounds per roll.

Romex - A name brand of nonmetallic sheathed electrical cable that is used for indoor wiring.

Roof jack - Sleeves that fit around the black plumbing waste vent pipes at, and are nailed to, the roof sheeting.

Roof joist - The rafters of a flat roof. Lumber used to support the roof sheeting and roof loads. Generally, 2 X 10's and 2 X 12's are used.

Roof sheathing or sheeting - The wood panels or sheet material fastened to the roof rafters or trusses on which the shingle or other roof covering is laid.

Roof valley - The "V" created where two sloping roofs meet.

Rough opening - The horizontal and vertical measurement of a window or door opening before drywall or siding is installed.

Rough sill - The framing member at the bottom of a rough opening for a window. It is attached to the cripple studs below the rough opening.

Roughing-in - The initial stage of a plumbing, electrical, heating, carpentry, and/or other project, when all components that won't be seen after the second finishing phase are assembled. See also Heat Rough, Plumbing Rough, and Electrical Rough.

Run, roof - The horizontal distance from the eaves to a point directly under the ridge. One half the span.

Run, stair - the horizontal distance of a stair tread from the nose to the riser.

R Value - A measure of insulation. A measure of a materials resistance to the passage of heat. The higher the R value, the more insulating "power" it has. For example, typical new home's walls are usually insulated with 4" of batt insulation with an R value of R-13, and a ceiling insulation of R-30.

S

Saddle - A small second roof built behind the back side of a fireplace chimney to divert water around the chimney. Also, the plate at the bottom of some—usually exterior—door openings. Sometimes called a threshold.

Sack mix - The amount of Portland cement in a cubic yard of concrete mix. Generally, 5 or 6 sack is required in a foundation wall.

Service entrance panel - Main power cabinet where electricity enters a home wiring system.

Service equipment - Main control gear at the service entrance, such as circuit breakers, switches, and fuses.

Service lateral - Underground power supply line.

Setback Thermostat - A thermostat with a clock which can be programmed to come on or go off at various temperatures and at different times of the day/week. Usually used as the heating or cooling system thermostat.

Settlement - Shifts in a structure, usually caused by freeze-thaw cycles underground.

Sewage ejector - A pump used to 'lift' waste water to a gravity sanitary sewer line. Usually used in basements and other locations which are situated bellow the level of the side sewer.

Sewer lateral - The portion of the sanitary sewer which connects the interior waste water lines to the main sewer lines. The side sewer is usually buried in several feet of soil and runs from the house to the sewer line. It is usually 'owned' by the sewer utility, must be maintained by the owner and may only be serviced by utility approved contractors. Sometimes called side sewer.

Sewer stub - The junction at the municipal sewer system where the home's sewer line is connected.

Sewer tap - The physical connection point where the home's sewer line connects to the main municipal sewer line.

Shake - A wood roofing material, normally cedar or redwood. Produced by splitting a block of the wood along the grain line. Modern shakes are sometimes machine sawn on one side. See shingle.

Shear block - Plywood that is face nailed to short (2 X 4's or 2 X 6's) wall studs (above a door or window, for example). This is done to prevent the wall from sliding and collapsing.

Sheathing, sheeting - The structural wood panel covering, usually OSB or plywood, used over studs, floor joists or rafters/trusses of a structure.

Shed roof - A roof containing only one sloping plane.

Sheet metal work - All components of a house employing sheet metal, such as flashing, gutters, and downspouts.

Sheet metal duct work - The heating system. Usually round or rectangular metal pipes and sheet metal (for Return Air) and installed for distributing warm (or cold) air from the furnace to rooms in the home.

Sheet rock - Drywall-Wall board or gypsum- A manufactured panel made out of gypsum plaster and encased in a thin cardboard. Usually 1/2" thick and 4' x 8' or 4' x 12' in size. The 'joint compound'. 'Green board' type drywall has a greater resistance to moisture than regular (white) plasterboard and is used in bathrooms and other "wet areas".

Shim - A small piece of scrap lumber or shingle, usually wedge shaped, which when forced behind a furring strip or framing member forces it into position. Also used when installing doors and placed between the door jamb legs and 2 X 4 door trimmers. Metal shims are wafer 1 1/2" X 2" sheet metal of various thicknesses used to fill gaps in wood framing members, especially at bearing point locations.

Shingles - Roof covering of asphalt. Asbestos, wood, tile, slate, or other material cut to stock lengths, widths, and thicknesses.

Shingles, siding - Various kinds of shingles, used over sheathing for exterior wall covering of a structure.

Short circuit - A situation that occurs when hot and neutral wires come in contact with each other. Fuses and circuit breakers protect against fire that could result from a short.

Shutter - Usually lightweight louvered decorative frames in the form of doors located on the sides of a window. Some shutters are made to close over the window for protection.

Side sewer - The portion of the sanitary sewer which connects the interior waste water lines to the main sewer lines. The side sewer is usually buried in several feet of soil and runs from the house to the sewer line. It is usually 'owned' by the sewer utility, must be maintained by the owner and may only be serviced by utility approved contractors. Sometimes called sewer lateral.

Siding - The finished exterior covering of the outside walls of a frame building.

Siding (lap siding) - Slightly wedge-shaped boards used as horizontal siding in a lapped pattern over the exterior sheathing. Varies in butt thickness from ½ to ¾ inch and in widths up to 12".

Sill - (1) The 2 X 4 or 2 X 6 wood plate framing member that lays flat against and bolted to the foundation wall (with anchor bolts) and upon which the floor joists are installed. Normally the sill plate is treated lumber. (2) The member forming the lower side of an opening, as a door sill or window sill.

Sill cock - An exterior water faucet (hose bib).

Sill plate (mudsill) - Bottom horizontal member of an exterior wall frame which rests on top a foundation, sometimes called mudsill. Also sole plate, bottom member of an interior wall frame.

Sill seal - Fiberglass or foam insulation installed between the foundation wall and sill (wood) plate. Designed to seal any cracks or gaps.

Single hung window - A window with one vertically sliding sash or window vent.

Skylight - A more or less horizontal window located on the roof of a building.

Slab, concrete - Concrete pavement, i.e. driveways, garages, and basement floors.

Slab, door - A rectangular door without hinges or frame.

Slab on grade - A type of foundation with a concrete floor which is placed directly on the soil. The edge of the slab is usually thicker and acts as the footing for the walls.

Slag - Concrete cement that sometimes covers the vertical face of the foundation void material.

Sleeper - Usually, a wood member embedded in concrete, as in a floor, that serves to support and to fasten the subfloor or flooring.

Sleeve(s) - Pipe installed under the concrete driveway or sidewalk, and that will be used later to run sprinkler pipe or low voltage wire.

Slope - The incline angle of a roof surface, given as a ratio of the rise (in inches) to the run (in feet). See also pitch.

Slump - The "wetness" of concrete. A 3 inch slump is dryer and stiffer than a 5 inch slump.

Soffit - The area below the eaves and overhangs. The underside where the roof overhangs the walls. Usually the underside of an overhanging cornice.

Soil pipe - A large pipe that carries liquid and solid wastes to a sewer or septic tank.

Soil stack - A plumbing vent pipe that penetrates the roof.

Sole plate - The bottom, horizontal framing member of a wall that's attached to the floor sheeting and vertical wall studs.

Solid bridging - A solid member placed between adjacent floor joists near the center of the span to prevent joists or rafters from twisting.

Sonotube - Round, large cardboard tubes designed to hold wet concrete in place until it hardens.

Sound attenuation - Sound proofing a wall or subfloor, generally with fiberglass insulation.

Space heat - Heat supplied to the living space, for example, to a room or the living area of a building.

Spacing - The distance between individual members or shingles in building construction.

Span - The clear distance that a framing member carries a load without support between structural supports. The horizontal distance from eaves to eaves.

Spec home - A house built before it is sold. The builder speculates that he can sell it at a profit.

Specifications or Specs - A narrative list of materials, methods, model numbers, colors, allowances, and other details which supplement the information contained in the blue prints. Written elaboration in specific detail about construction materials and methods. Written to supplement working drawings.

Splash block - Portable concrete (or vinyl) channel generally placed beneath an exterior sill cock (water faucet) or downspout in order to receive roof drainage from downspouts and to divert it away from the building.

Square - A unit of measure - 100 square feet - usually applied to roofing and siding material. Also, a situation that exists when two elements are at right angles to each other. Also a tool for checking this.

Square-tab shingles - Shingles on which tabs are all the same size and exposure.

Squeegie - Fine pea gravel used to grade a floor (normally before concrete is placed).

Stack (trusses) - To position trusses on the walls in their correct location.

Standard practices of the trade(s) - One of the more common basic and minimum construction standards. This is another way of saying that the work should be done in the way it is normally done by the average professional in the field.

Starter strip - Asphalt roofing applied at the eaves that provides protection by filling in the spaces under the cutouts and joints of the first course of shingles.

Stair carriage or stringer - Supporting member for

stair treads. Usually a 2 X 12 inch plank notched to receive the treads; sometimes called a "rough horse."

Stair landing - A platform between flights of stairs or at the termination of a flight of stairs. Often used when stairs change direction. Normally no less than 3 ft. X 3 ft. square.

Stair rise - The vertical distance from stair tread to stair tread (and not to exceed 7 ½").

Static vent - A vent that does not include a fan.

STC (Sound Transmission Class) - The measure of sound stopping of ordinary noise.

Steel inspection - A municipal and/or engineer’s inspection of the concrete foundation wall, conducted before concrete is poured into the foundation panels. Done to insure that the rebar (reinforcing bar), rebar nets, void material, beam pocket plates, and basement window bucks are installed and wrapped with rebar and complies with the foundation plan.

Step flashing - Flashing application method used where a vertical surface meets a sloping roof plane. 6" X 6" galvanized metal bent at a 90 degree angle, and installed beneath siding and over the top of shingles. Each piece overlaps the one beneath it the entire length of the sloping roof (step by step).

Stick built - A house built without prefabricated parts. Also called conventional building.

Stile - An upright framing member in a panel door.

Stool - The flat molding fitted over the window sill between jambs and contacting the bottom rail of the lower sash.  Also another name for toilet.

Stop box - Normally a cast iron pipe with a lid (@ 5" in diameter) that is placed vertically into the ground, situated near the water tap in the yard, and where a water cut-off valve to the home is located (underground). A long pole with a special end is inserted into the curb stop to turn off/on the water.

Stop Order - A formal, written notification to a contractor to discontinue some or all work on a project for reasons such as safety violations, defective materials or workmanship, or cancellation of the contract.

Stops - Moldings along the inner edges of a door or window frame. Also valves used to shut off water to a fixture.

Stop valve - A device installed in a water supply line, usually near a fixture, that permits an individual to shut off the water supply to one fixture without interrupting service to the rest of the system.

Storm sash or storm window - An extra window usually placed outside of an existing one, as

additional protection against cold weather.

Storm sewer - A sewer system designed to collect storm water and is separated from the waste water system.

Story - That part of a building between any floor or between the floor and roof.

Strike - The plate on a door frame that engages a latch or dead bolt.

String, stringer - A timber or other support for cross members in floors or ceilings. In stairs, the supporting member for stair treads. Usually a 2 X 12 inch plank notched to receive the treads.

Strip flooring - Wood flooring consisting of narrow, matched strips.

Structural floor - A framed lumber floor that is installed as a basement floor instead of concrete. This is done on very expansive soils.

Stub, stubbed - To push through.

Stucco - Refers to an outside plaster finish made with Portland cement as its base.

Stud - A vertical wood framing member, also referred to as a wall stud, attached to the horizontal sole plate below and the top plate above. Normally 2 X 4's or 2 X 6's, 8' long (sometimes 92 5/8"). One of a series of wood or metal vertical structural members placed as supporting elements in walls and partitions.

Stud framing - A building method that distributes structural loads to each of a series of relatively lightweight studs. Contrasts with post-and-beam.

Stud shoe - A metal, structural bracket that reinforces a vertical stud. Used on an outside bearing wall where holes are drilled to accommodate a plumbing waste line.

Subfloor - The framing components of a floor to include the sill plate, floor joists, and deck sheeting over which a finish floor is to be laid.

Sump - Pit or large plastic bucket/barrel inside the home designed to collect ground water from a perimeter drain system.

Sump pump - A submersible pump in a sump pit that pumps any excess ground water to the outside of the home.

Suspended ceiling - A ceiling system supported by hanging it from the overhead structural framing.

Sway brace - Metal straps or wood blocks installed diagonally on the inside of a wall from bottom to top plate, to prevent the wall from twisting, racking, or falling over "domino" fashion.

Switch - A device that completes or disconnects an electrical circuit.

T

T & G, tongue and groove - A joint made by a tongue (a rib on one edge of a board) that fits into a corresponding groove in the edge of another board to make a tight flush joint. Typically, the subfloor plywood is T & G.

Tab - The exposed portion of strip shingles defined by cutouts.

Tail beam - A relatively short beam or joist supported in a wall on one end and by a header at the other.

Take off - The material necessary to complete a job.

Taping - The process of covering drywall joints with paper tape and joint compound.

T bar - Ribbed, "T" shaped bars with a flat metal plate at the bottom that are driven into the earth. Normally used chain link fence poles, and to mark locations of a water meter pit.

Teco - Metal straps that are nailed and secure the roof rafters and trusses to the top horizontal wall plate. Sometimes called a hurricane clip.

Tee - A "T" shaped plumbing fitting.

Tempered - Strengthened. Tempered glass will not shatter nor create shards, but will "pelletize" like an automobile window. Required in tub and shower enclosures and locations, entry door glass and sidelight glass, and in a windows when the window sill is less than 16" to the floor.

Termites - Wood eating insects that superficially resemble ants in size and general appearance, and live in colonies.

Termite shield - A shield, usually of galvanized metal, placed in or on a foundation wall or around pipes to prevent the passage of termites.

Terra cotta - A ceramic material molded into masonry units.

Thermoply ™ - Exterior laminated sheathing nailed to the exterior side of the exterior walls. Normally ¼ " thick, 4 X 8 or 4 x 10 sheets with an aluminumized surface.

Thermostat - A device which relegates the temperature of a room or building by switching heating or cooling equipment on or off.

Three-dimensional shingles - Laminated shingles. Shingles that have added dimensionality because of extra layers or tabs, giving a shake-like appearance. May also be called "architectural shingles".

Threshold - The bottom metal or wood plate of an exterior door frame. Generally they are adjustable to keep a tight fit with the door slab.

Time and materials contract - A construction contract which specifies a price for different elements of the work such as cost per hour of labor, overhead, profit, etc. A contract which may not have a maximum price, or may state a 'price not to exceed'.

Tinner - Another name for the heating contractor.

Tip up - The downspout extension that directs water (from the home's gutter system) away from the home. They typically swing up when mowing the lawn, etc.

Title - Evidence (usually in the form of a certificate or deed) of a person's legal right to ownership of a property.

TJI or TJ - Manufactured structural building component resembling the letter "I". Used as floor joists and rafters. I-joists include two key parts: flanges and webs. The flange or from of the I joist may be made of laminated veneer lumber or dimensional lumber, usually formed into a 1 ½" width. The web or center of the I-joist is commonly made of plywood or oriented strand board (OSB). Large holes can be cut in the web to accommodate duct work and plumbing waste lines. I-joists are available in lengths up to 60'' long.

Toe nailing - To drive a nail in at a slant. Method used to secure floor joists to the plate.

Top chord - The upper or top member of a truss.

Top plate - Top horizontal member of a frame wall supporting ceiling joists, rafters, or other members.

Transmitter (garage door) - The small, push button device that causes the garage door to open or close.

Trap - A plumbing fitting that holds water to prevent air, gas, and vermin from backing up into a fixture.

Tread - The walking surface board in a stairway on which the foot is placed.

Treated lumber - A wood product which has been impregnated with chemical pesticides such as CCA (Chromated Copper Arsenate) to reduce damage from wood rot or insects. Often used for the portions of a structure which are likely to be in contact with soil and water. Wood may also be treated with a fire retardant.

Trim (plumbing, heating, electrical) - The work that the "mechanical" contractors perform to finish their respective aspects of work, and when the home is nearing completion and occupancy.

Trim, Interior - The finish materials in a building, such as moldings applied around openings (window trim, door trim) or at the floor and ceiling of rooms (baseboard, cornice, and other moldings). Also, the physical work of installing interior doors and interior woodwork, to include all handrails, guardrails, stair way balustrades, mantles, light boxes, base, door casings, cabinets, countertops, shelves, window sills and aprons, etc. Exterior- The finish materials on the exterior a building, such as moldings applied around openings (window trim, door trim), siding, windows, exterior doors, attic vents, crawl space vents, shutters, etc. Also, the physical work of installing these materials

Trimmer - The vertical stud that supports a header at a door, window, or other opening.

Truss - An engineered and manufactured roof support member with "zig-zag" framing members. Does the same job as a rafter but is designed to have a longer span than a rafter.

Tub trap - Curved, "U" shaped section of a bath tub drain pipe that holds a water seal to prevent sewer gasses from entering the home through tubs water drain.

Turnkey - A term used when the subcontractor provides all materials (and labor) for a job.

Turpentine - A petroleum, volatile oil used as a thinner in paints and as a solvent in varnishes.

U

UL (Underwriters' Laboratories) - An independent testing agency that checks electrical devices and other components for possible safety hazards.

Undercoat - A coating applied prior to the finishing or top coats of a paint job. It may be the first of two or the second of three coats. Sometimes called the Prime coat.

Underground plumbing - The plumbing drain and waste lines that are installed beneath a basement floor.

Underlayment - A ¼" material placed over the subfloor plywood sheeting and under finish coverings, such as vinyl flooring, to provide a smooth, even surface. Also a secondary roofing layer that is waterproof or water-resistant, installed on the roof deck and beneath shingles or other roof-finishing layer.

Union - A plumbing fitting that joins pipes end-to-end so they can be dismantled.

Utility easement - The area of the earth that has electric, gas, or telephone lines. These areas may be owned by the homeowner, but the utility company has the legal right to enter the area as necessary to repair or service the lines.

V

Valley - The "V" shaped area of a roof where two sloping roofs meet. Water drains off the roof at the valleys.

Valley flashing - Sheet metal that lays in the "V" area of a roof valley.

Valuation - An inspection carried out for the benefit of the mortgage lender to ascertain if a property is a good security for a loan.

Valuation fee - The fee paid by the prospective borrower for the lender's inspection of the property. Normally paid upon loan application.

Vapor barrier - A building product installed on exterior walls and ceilings under the drywall and on the warm side of the insulation. It is used to retard the movement of water vapor into walls and prevent condensation within them. Normally, polyethylene plastic sheeting is used.

Variable rate - An interest rate that will vary over the term of the loan.

Veneer - Extremely thin sheets of wood. Also a thin slice of wood or brick or stone covering a framed wall.

Vent - A pipe or duct which allows the flow of air and gasses to the outside. Also, another word for the moving glass part of a window sash, i.e. window vent.

Vermiculite - A mineral used as bulk insulation and also as aggregate in insulating and acoustical plaster and in insulating concrete floors.

Veterans Administration (VA) - A federal agency that insures mortgage loans with very liberal down payment requirements for honorably discharged veterans and their surviving spouses.

Visqueen - A 4 mil or 6 mil plastic sheeting.

Void - Cardboard rectangular boxes that are installed between the earth (between caissons) and the concrete foundation wall. Used when expansive soils are present.

Voltage - A measure of electrical potential. Most homes are wired with 110 and 220 volt lines. The 110 volt power is used for lighting and most of the other circuits. The 220 volt power is usually used for the kitchen range, hot water heater and dryer.

W

Wafer board - A manufactured wood panel made out of 1"- 2" wood chips and glue. Often used as a substitute for plywood in the exterior wall and roof sheathing.

Walk-Through - A final inspection of a home before "Closing" to look for and document problems that need to be corrected.

Wall out - When a painter pray paints the interior of a home.

Warping - Any distortion in a material.

Warranty - In construction there are two general types of warranties. One is provided by the manufacturer of a product such as roofing material or an appliance. The second is a warranty for the labor. For example, a roofing contract may include a 20 year material warranty and a 5 year labor warranty. Many new homebuilders provide a one year warranty. Any major issue found during the first year should be communicated to the builder immediately. Small items can be saved up and presented to the builder for correction periodically through the first year after closing.

Waste pipe and vent - Plumbing plastic pipe that carries waste water to the municipal sewage system.

Water board - Water resistant drywall to be used in tub and shower locations. Normally green or blue colored

Water closet - Another name for toilet.

Water meter pit (or vault) - The box /cast iron bonnet and concrete rings that contains the water meter.

Water-repellent preservative - A liquid applied to wood to give the wood water repellant properties

Water table - The location of the underground water, and the vertical distance from the surface of the earth to this underground water.

Water tap - The connection point where the home water line connects to the main municipal water system.

WC - An abbreviation for water closet (toilet).

Weatherization - Work on a building exterior in order to reduce energy consumption for heating or cooling.  Work involving adding insulation, installing storm windows and doors, caulking cracks and putting on weather-stripping.

Weather strip - Narrow sections of thin metal or other material installed to prevent the infiltration of air and moisture around windows and doors.

Weep holes - Small holes in storm window frames that allow moisture to escape.

Whole house fan - A fan designed to move air through and out of a home and normally installed in the ceiling.

Wind bracing - Metal straps or wood blocks installed diagonally on the inside of a wall from bottom to top plate, to prevent the wall from twisting, racking, or falling over "domino" fashion.

Window buck - Square or rectangular box that is installed within a concrete foundation or block wall. A window will eventually be installed in this "buck" during the siding stage of construction.

Window frame - The stationary part of a window unit; window sash fits into the window frame.

Window sash - The operating or movable part of a window; the sash is made of window panes and their border.

Wire nut - A plastic device used to connect bare wires together.

Wonderboard ™ - A panel made out of concrete and fiberglass usually used as a ceramic tile backing material. Commonly used on bathtub decks.

Wrapped drywall - Areas that get complete drywall covering, as in the doorway openings of bifold and bipass closet doors.

Y

Y - A "Y" shaped plumbing fitting.

Yard of concrete - One cubic yard of concrete is 3' X 3' X 3' in volume, or 27 cubic feet.  One cubic yard of concrete will pour 80 square feet of 3 ½" sidewalk or basement/garage floor.

Yoke - The location where a home's water meter is sometimes installed between two copper pipes, and located in the water meter pit in the yard.

Z-bar flashing - Bent, galvanized metal flashing that's installed above a horizontal trim board of an exterior window, door, or brick run. It prevents water from getting behind the trim/brick and into the home.

Zone - The section of a building that is served by one heating or cooling loop because it has noticeably distinct heating or cooling needs. Also, the section of property that will be watered from a lawn sprinkler system.

Zone valve - A device, usually placed near the heater or cooler, which controls the flow of water or steam to parts of the building; it is controlled by a zone thermostat.

Zoning - A governmental process and specification which limits the use of a property e.g. single family use, high rise residential use, industrial use, etc. Zoning laws may limit where you can locate a structure. Also see building codes.

 

Spazio LA does not endorse or provide any validity to the definitions or terms herein.

 

 

Stop Ignoring your Master Bedroom: Master bedroom remodeling 2016

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Stop Ignoring your Master Bedroom Swoon over these master bedroom remodel ideas during the month of love.  Updating your master bedroom can not only create a person retreat after a long day at work but also add value to your home. When designing this space you will want a place to relax, show your style, and rejuvenate for the following day that is always ahead of you. Why do you want to remodel your master bedroom?

modern master bedroom design

 

1. Tired of the same old color scheme or theme.

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2. Change in family situation. (Adding a place for a newborn for instance)

3. Wanted an ensuite master bathroom.untitled-15

  • The bedroom is the least expensive room to remodel, but it can still be a return investment. You can get nearly 30% return investment on a master bedroom remodel.

You may be remodeling your master bedroom for a number of reasons, but you will want to plan for the best outcome to potentially give you a return investment in the event you sell your home as described above.

Trending Master Bedroom Ideascloset1

2016 master bedroom remodels are proving to hold extra-large, custom walk in closets and extra-large attached bathrooms. As the years go on we accumulate more and more clothes and shoes, especially guilty are the wives, closet space is always an issue. Now you can stop taking up every closet in the house and bring everything together in one awesome custom closet.  Ensuite master bathrooms are always high in demand, but this year you can bet your last dollar that they will be over the top and possibly bigger than usual.

closet with makeup vanity

closet

Guest bathroom remodeling decoded

Guest bathroom remodeling decoded When designing a guest bathroom you should think of comfort over style, or is it style over comfort? How about you get both with a custom bathroom design! Don't lose out on a great looking bathroom for the fact of comfort, get both all in one space.

How to achieve a great guest bathroom?

1. Style and Paint color:  Think of the style you are trying to achieve before you set your heart on a paint color. Is this bathroom going to be styled after the Zen theme, modern, contemporary, spa like,  or are you completely lost? Get a feel for the style you want to create with this space, try getting your favorite bathroom pictures and inspiration together and pinning down what you like and don't like.

2. Layout/Design: Do you want or have space for a full tub and shower? Double vanity?  You will need to carefully consider your budget and what you are wishing to do with this guest bathroom. If you have a view from the bathroom you will want to postion the bath in front of this to make for a peaceful bath experience. Proper ventilation is very important, heat and moisture can lead to mildew and mold growth. The trick is to blend a bathroom design that appeals to you with the needs of future guests. "Make it as big and as roomy as you can," says Kristen Zwick, designer with Kitchens by Teipen in Greenwood, Ind.

3. Lighting: You may opt for a glorious  crystal chandelier for the master bathroom, but your budget may only allow for certain lighting. If you are on a tight budget, don't over look bargain or second hand lighting fixtures. Mirrors can add reflect lighting in a darker space and add the illusion of more room.

4. Storage: A small linen closet stocked with extra necessities like towels and tissue, a drawer or two where guests can stash their personal items, a few hooks to provide a handy spot for hanging clothes and towels, and a hamper for used linens can make guests feel at home.

5. Accessories: After construction wraps up, dress up a basic bath is with accessories. Splurge on thick, soft towels and hang a cozy bathrobe on a hook. Provide an assortment of French-milled soaps, a fragrant candle and a carafe of water with a glass for a welcoming touch.

6. Materials: No matter if you are going with Eco friendly or not, materials of choice matter.  You will need to find materials that are durable, moisture resistant and safe for the bathroom. We have talked about carpet in the bathroom before and this is still a no no.

 

 

Create a great kids room that isn’t a hazard to your mood

Create a great kids room that isn’t a hazard to your mood When it comes to planning the kids’ room always starts from the idea that the approach should be totally different than when decorating an adult bedroom. That’s because children’s bedrooms should reflect their personality and not that of their parents. You may like red and gold, but your children may want something bright and colorful. For children, the bedroom is the place to play, read, listen to music, and expose their valuables, day-dream or retreat to be alone for a while.

modern room for kids

Paint

Start with painting a room before you go out and buy furniture and accents. It is much easier to pain first; otherwise you may be repainting when you find that nothing matches or flows. “Going too bold with a kids' room can be a mistake, though. You want to play around with a combination of bold colors and subtler accents to create a room where your child can feel awake and alive but still get relaxed enough to sleep at night.” – Kathryn, Houzz Pro.

First of all let's think about the main activities that go on in bedrooms and how they should inform the design.  Sleeping, dressing, playing and studying.

Sleeping

When children (and indeed everyone) get into bed they want to feel safe and cozy.

A headboard goes a long way to promoting these feelings.  If the bed is against a wall it can be fun if the headboard goes round the side and along the length of the bed.  This is also a bonus if your child ever wants to read or study while sitting on the bed, or have friends into their bedroom as the bed effectively doubles as a sofa.

twin bed with storage

Dressing

Obviously to dress you need a wardrobe or closet and the space to dress.  Beyond that here are a few thoughts on dressing.

  • Make sure there's privacy from the outside for getting dressed.  If you have young children you may want to consider putting in a translucent window treatment so that your kids don't have to remember to close the curtains, in order to keep things private every time they get dressed.

Playing

Now depending on the age of the child playing can mean very different things.  It might mean Hotwheels or dolls houses.  Getting older it might mean Lego or Miss World. Then at the tween and tween stage there might be hobbies to accommodate.  Whatever the age there's often other children involved be it play dates or more like a social club!

Playing needs space and storage.  I'll say it again.  Playing needs space and storage.  Storage, storage, storage.

Here's a few play ideas...

  • To create space and storage consider installing bunk beds (even if the room is only for one child).
  • Consider putting a few heavy duty hooks into the ceilings and/or walls (make sure these go into studs and not just plasterboard).  These can be used for quickly rigging up dens, hanging hammocks or hanging swinging shelves, how about a swing?

Studying

Study areas are most successful if they focus the mind by filtering out distractions.  A desk is great up against a wall (or room divider) so that there's somewhere for shelves and maybe a pin board.  If you can create a study alcove so that the desk has a kind of sheltered feeling with its own light source that would be a great place to study.

When you're playing with bedroom layouts don't forget to include a chair with the desk - make sure there's space for it and that it doesn't get in the way of any door swings.

kids desk

Remember that this space is intended for your child, and should be able to represent their personality.

For more design tips, check back for our weekly blog.

Spazio LA Earns Esteemed 2015 Angie’s List Super Service Award

Spazio LA Earns Esteemed 2015 Angie’s List Super Service Award

Award reflects company’s consistently high level of customer service

 

Spazio LA has earned the service industry’s coveted Angie’s List Super Service Award, reflecting an exemplary year of service provided to members of the local services marketplace and consumer review site in 2015.

“Only about 5 percent of the Remodel & Interior Design  companies in the Los Angeles area have performed so consistently well enough to earn our Super Service Award,” said Angie’s List Founder Angie Hicks. “It’s a really high standard.”

 

Angie’s List Super Service Award 2015 winners have met strict eligibility requirements, which include an “A” rating in overall grade, recent grade, and review period grade; the company must be in good standing with Angie’s List, pass a background check and abide by Angie’s List operational guidelines.

 

Service company ratings are updated daily on Angie’s List. Companies are graded on an A through F scale in areas ranging from price to professionalism to punctuality.

 

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Angie's List helps facilitate happy transactions between more than three million consumers nationwide and its collection of highly rated service providers in more than 720 categories of service, ranging from home improvement to health care. Built on a foundation of more than 10 million verified reviews of local service, Angie's List connects consumers directly to its online marketplace of services from member-reviewed providers, and offers unique tools and support designed to improve the local service experience for both consumers and service professionals.

Is stamped concrete a do-it-yourself project?

If you are looking for a great patio, but can’t seem to find the budget for expensive stone – consider Stamped Concrete! This is a great alternative choice and you won’t believe the options in color and design. Read through our article and decide if Stamped Concrete is right for your next remodel project.  hardwood-stamped-concrete1

Is stamped concrete a do-it-yourself project? No matter how many projects you may have attempted as a do-it-yourself weekend warrior, stamped concrete is not your typical endeavor for the Los Angeles home owner. Of course, any professional will tell you it's a job better left to an experienced contractor. Professional concrete contractors know how difficult and time-sensitive a stamped concrete project can be, you only get one shot! They've also had the time and sometimes unfortunate circumstance to learn by trial and error a serious learning curve you or your budget may not be up for. Personally, I don’t want to learn by mistake when it comes to my time and money.

 

Why is stamped concrete a job for professionals? Here are a few of the main reasons why stamped concrete can be a challenging project for a do-it-yourselfer:

  1. You only get one shot at this, once it dries there is no turning back or starting over. (unless you want to rip it all out and start over.)
  2. Professionals know great tricks to get the job done right and done fast.
  3. Concrete is not forgiving.

 stamped

Now let’s get to the fun part, why you need a stamped concrete patio:

  1. A stamped concrete patio gives you the look and texture of a stone patio for a lot less than the real thing — up to 50% less than the cost of natural slate or limestone.
  2. Thanks to industry innovations, there are practically limitless design choices for decorative concrete. With the current dyes and stamps, it is often difficult to tell the difference between concrete and the much pricier stone and brick options.
  3. Unlike natural stone and pavers, decorative concrete does not typically shift. Large areas typically incorporate sturdy rebar, to make it even stronger.stamped-concrete-patio-41

3 Money saving tips starting in your back yard

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Money saving tips starting in your back yard Keeping your yard green and groomed can be quite the costly task. As with most tasks, a little bit of planning can lead to significant savings without sacrificing the quality of your yard.

Before you can save money you need to identify the purpose and goals of your yard. How do you want to use your yard? Do you want your lawn to just be a place for the kids and dog to play? Or are you trying to win awards, stand out to your Los Angeles neighbors, and are exemplify that botanical garden look? That decision determines your true path and how much money you’ll end up spending.

Regardless of what path you choose, there are various ways you can save money on landscaping:

1. Compost

Compost is the cream of the crop in money-saving landscaping tips.

It’s one of the best things you can use in a garden or lawn. Take your banana peels, apple cores, and other food scraps and throw them in a pile (or in a composting device). Add a little bit of water, and wait. The result is what many landscapers call black gold due to the variety of uses for the product.

You can use compost as a soil amendment instead of packaged top soil from the local garden center. You can put a few inches of compost down as mulch instead of buying bagged pine mulch. You can even sprinkle compost over your lawn and let it soak in and break down over time. Your lawn should look healthier as time goes on and you’ll save a ton of money. Tip: Grow your own garden to save money on produce.

2. Use Plants Native to Your Region

You make your gardening life more difficult when you attempt to landscape with plants that are foreign to your region of the country. They may look great – but they are not easy to upkeep.

Not sure which plants are native and which are foreign? As with the fertilizer, it helps to know a local resource that can guide your choices. Ask around at your local gardening store or to a green thumb neighbor.

Plus, by shopping at local small businesses, you support your community. That’s better than sending your dollars to a faceless mega corporation based in some other state.

3. Repair and Repaint Fencing before Replacing

Instead of replacing giant sections of fence, be smart and simply took some screws and a power drill and pushed the bent boards back in to place. Instead of ignoring the problem due to expense, find a frugal solution.

The same can be said for a fence with faded paint. If at least some of the wood is in good condition, don’t tear everything down and start over. That’s very expensive. Instead get some paint brushes and outdoor paint, and go to town. A fresh coat of paint can make an old fence look brand new and even add some protection.

Do you have any awesome money-saving landscaping tips to add to these ideas?

 

Clever ideas to spruce up your yard...before summer

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We are lucky in Los Angeles, we get amazing weather year round, and the summers are even more beautiful! Is your backyard looking a little sad? Get these quick tips to help give your yard a overhaul before summer. A DIY Pergola is the perfect way to create a covered space for entertaining. There are many designs, which include open top as well as a completely covered. Add a hanging light fixture and some curtains and you have a dreamy backyard design.

diy pergola backyard

rock backyard ideas Not much of a Green Thumb? Try adding no-maintenance rocks and gravel to your backyard retreat. Stepping it up a notch with different levels makes this rocky backyard not so boring. Gravel is also versatile, says Los Angeles landscape architect Mia Lehrer. It looks totally natural outside homes in the Italian, French, or English style, yet equally at ease around sprawling ranch houses and contemporary structures.

raised planters backyard DIY Raised planter beds give your yard depth and give you the chance to grow healthy for your family. Check this great blog for easy to follow instructions. Tip for great raised planter beds: Build each wall separately, then fasten them together and put the bed into position. Raised-bed builders often sink posts into the ground for stability, either at the inside corners of the bed or halfway along the side walls. These help hold the bed in place, but can also reduce the outward pressure that a full bed exerts on the frame, which can dislodge the lumber after a single season. A cap railing that runs around the top of the bed ties everything together. Plus, it provides a handy place to set down gardening tools while working, or, when you're done, a seat to admire the fruits of your labor. Bed covers ward off insects and keep plants warm in cool weather.

backyard-garden-design-with-lighting-ideas-with-steel-fence Hardscape can really change the look and feel of your Los Angeles yard. Adding stairs, a steel stair case, and earth elements such as water and fire - create a backyard meant for a king or queen.

For a custom backyard design contact us today to get one specially designed.

Eco Friendly Los Angeles Yards

How can you green your outdoor home this season?If you’ve been trying to think of unique ways to green your outdoor home, here are 5 eco-friendly ideas to get you started.

nana walls 1. Mary the outdoors with your interior home: One of the easiest ways to green your outdoor home is to blur the lines between your interior and exterior home. While opening up your windows and doors is a great way to let in fresh air, architectural options such as window walls that open up to the outdoors as well as glazed doors with operating windows can let in a fresh breeze without allowing pests in during hot and humid summer months. Look into Nana walls for retractable walls that allow you to create one great indoor/outdoor space. 2. Use green materials when remodeling and renovating: If you are considering adding a wood deck – consider using recycled or reclaimed wood from other buildings for your exterior deck project. Many lumber yards have suppliers to provide a great selection of reclaimed and recycled timber for your outdoor home projects. Concrete, wrought iron, and even railroad ties are becoming gorgeous materials to use throughout outdoor projects. You will be surprised how your garden or DIY outdoor home project will be enhanced with one-of-a-kind green materials. 3. Replace worn out lighting fixtures with energy-efficient ones: Your outdoor home can have an aesthetic eco-friendly appeal as well as a functional appeal, and that’s where lighting fixtures are essentials. While you may not think about it outdoor lighting, especially old fixtures use a lot of energy and they can drive your energy bill soaring! Replace old fixtures with energy-saving varities or even solar powered fixtures. Old incandescent bulbs can be replaced with LED lights that burn cooler and give off a brighter glow of light. Consider using these for lighting your walkways, front and back entryways, as well as illuminating your garage and landscaping around your home. Repurpose old housing materials for new uses in your outdoor home

diy-pallet-outdoor-couch-1 4. DIY Outdoor home ideas using repurposed decor: If you love to repurpose household items and use them in new and inventive ways, what better place to start than your outdoor home? Repurposing can be as simple as using an old piece of furniture that has been sitting in your garage and now using it for a decorative planter for your front porch. Repurposed home decor you see at your local yard sale or salvage yard can be painted, refinished, and given a new purpose in your outdoor home. This outdoor butler’s pantry table adjacent to a summer kitchen is made from a salvaged wrought iron balcony and a slab of bluestone. 5. Install innovative technologies to save energy Some of the most eco-friendly options for your outdoor home have to do with systems and technology as opposed to physical embellishments. Motion detectors placed near your exterior lighting will help save electricity. This will enable your lighting to only come on when a person, animal, or other motion is sensed. These detectors work best on floodlights in the rear of your home as opposed to architectural and landscape lighting. Consider having your home security and outdoor lighting systems connected to a “smart-home” technology. There are many examples of your electronic or e-home being able to be controlled through internet access. Turning off and on your home from your smart-phone, tablet and anywhere around the world can help save energy as well.

How do you make use of your outdoor space?

Salvaged materials make for great home décor

Salvaged materials make for great home décor BHG answers a good question that we all need to hear. Read below and we will show you how to salvage materials and turn them into something new.

Q: How does recycling apply to home construction and renovation?

A: Home building and remodeling involve a lot of materials that can end up in the recycling/reuse stream rather than in a landfill. Most common building materials—wood, plastic, steel, brick, drywall, concrete—can be recycled or reclaimed for future use, so product labels that read "100 percent recyclable" are largely meaningless. The potential is there, but unless there's a mandated or profitable recycling program in place, few builders or homeowners bother taking that step.

If you have a building or remodeling project in the works, ask your contractor or local building official how to recycle old or leftover materials. And where possible, specify new products that feature at least 25 percent post-consumer recycled materials. Some materials, such as composite decking, often contain recycled plastic resins and can be recycled again. The same potential exists for old copper or brass pipe, electrical wiring, and aluminum or vinyl siding.

recycled sink, recycling remodel materials This 1940's era sink was salvaged off Craigslist, and there is more where that came from. You can score great finds at your local swap meet or yard sale. Another man's junk is one man's treasure.

custom made salv wood Photo credit: Custommade.com Save your old wood flooring and out it up on your wall for a natural texture and rustic look. diy coffee table door DIY Rustic Old Door Coffee Table window picture frames Single pane windows become art! They make for great picture frames and much more. my fabulous life cabinets Photo Credit: My Fabulous Life Throwing out your cabinets? Think again - sell them or donate to someone whom may be able to get use out of them.

Eco Friendly Kitchen Ideas – that aren’t so boring

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Eco Friendly Kitchen Ideas – that aren’t so boring $30 billion: Money saved by Americans using ENERGY STAR appliances, lights, and windows in 2013, saving the energy equivalent to 277 million metric tons of greenhouse gas emissions.

 

Eco- Friendly kitchens go beyond just eating green and recycling materials. Now-a-days you have to think bigger and by bigger we mean lots of small details that make your kitchen a true Green Kitchen. Energy-efficient food preparation and cleaning habits, using equipment made from sustainable materials, and tossing out toxic chemicals are also important if you want to have a truly healthy kitchen. Fortunately, making the right choices for your well-being is also good for the pocket and the planet. Who knew that there could be more that we can do besides buying energy star appliances, and installing better insulated windows and doors could make such a positive impact on the earth!

We have broken down design ideas that go beyond just Energy Star appliances and recycled materials for your Green Kitchen remodel.

So of course buying EPA program’s Energy Star appliances can cut down water and energy use by 10-50%. This you should know by now, as the commercials about this are on every few hours, it feels this way at least.  But did you know that Electric stoves are actually the healthier option when it comes to purchasing Gas vs Electric range? Gas stoves can add 25-40% more NO2 or CO to the indoor air pollution than already being produced. Americans spend an average of 90% of their time indoors, which increases the indoor air pollution compared to being outdoors. No matter if you end up choosing a Gas or Electric range, make sure it is simple and remember that it doesn’t have to have any special features that are unnecessary. Quick tip: Save energy by skipping the “Preheat”, newer ovens heat quickly to their setting and do not need to be sitting for 30 mins “getting hot”.  Want to save more water? Efficient dishwashers can cut down on hot water as compared to you washing the dishes by hand! There is your great reason to stop washing all of your pots and pans and utensils by hand!

Also, purchasing good quality utensils and cookware can actually benefit the earth. If you are wasting fewer things, for instance you have to throw out a plastic spatula because it melted; you will save more materials and have a great impact on the environment. Ditch the Teflon – it has a very limited useful lifetime.  Think of the lifetime that each item you buy for your kitchen has the longer the lifetime the more eco-friendly you are becoming. Waste not, want not! You may have to invest a little bit more when it comes to quality utensils, and cookware – but the longer you have these things, the less has to be produced. Less production = less pollution. Quick tip: Use cloth towels for clean ups and ditch the old fashioned paper towels.

Don’t forget; if you can’t utilize any materials from your old kitchen for your new eco-friendly kitchen remodel, see if you can make a few extra bucks by selling them to someone who can use them. This will ensure that old materials and appliances are recycled and not gone to waste.

Check back for more use tips on remodeling and remodeling green.

Avoid the WORST kitchen remodeling mistakes

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Avoid the WORST kitchen remodeling mistakes Everyone has heard the kitchen remodel horror stories about some contractor whom skips town with your money, or a contractor whom leaves your kitchen a huge, unworkable mess because a product is on back order. Let’s avoid those horror stories and get your kitchen remodel done the right way.

1. Don’t go with the first remodeling company you see online. This goes for the first company offering a big discount. Some companies can offer a savings if you sign up with them right on the spot. Avoid letting pushy tactics get you to sign a contract without much thought or research. Ask lots of questions, read reviews and ask for references. A remodel company’s work should speak for itself. If the reviews are reading the same thing over and over, describing poor quality and such forth, then you may need to pass on that company.

2. Don’t pay for the entire project until the entire project is completed. Most projects will require you to make a significant down payment. This is normal since the contractor has to place orders for products that are designed specifically for your kitchen. If you decided to withdraw from the project, the down payment is their financial safety net. However, you deserve a safety net too. It is good policy to always leave a portion outstanding until the kitchen is finished. 10% is pretty typical. If you have a problem giving your contractor a down payment, then you don’t trust them. If you feel your contractor is untrustworthy, it’s time for a new one. You should always be able to trust your contractor. They’re the one that will be in your home and making big changes.

 

3. Don’t stress yourself out if the project gets set back a few days. Think of the end result and how you will enjoy this kitchen remodel for a good amount of years, a few days off schedule will be ok. Projects will have draw backs and there will be things that come up and change plans. You will need to roll with the punches so to say, and trust your remodel team has everything under control.

4. Don’t expect a working kitchen until the project’s done unless otherwise stated. Make arrangements so you won’t need one. Cabinet refacing does not shut down your kitchen, but new countertops in addition to refacing will. You will probably be without running water and a sink for a day or two. New kitchens are shut down on day one, as soon as the old cabinets are torn out. Depending on the countertop chosen, you’re typically looking at 2-4 weeks before you have a fully functional kitchen again.

 

5. Don’t start your remodel before you’ve chosen your appliances. Make sure you have the specs in the contractors’ hands prior to cabinets being ordered. That way they can arrange a better fit for the appliance into the cabinets. This applies especially to wall ovens, built in microwaves, cook tops, and large refrigerators.

 

 

Why would I want Concrete Countertops?

Why would I want Concrete Countertops? Concrete Countertops are Durable

Concrete is extremely hard and resists chipping and scratching. It will last for decades with a minimum amount of basic maintenance. You probably won’t have to replace it until you’re ready for a new look in the kitchen or bathroom decades down the road.

They’re Heat Resistant

If you love to cook, concrete kitchen countertops will prove to be an asset. They stand up to the heat of a cooktop as well as hot pots and pans. Concrete bathroom countertops won’t be harmed by hot hair tools like a styling iron or straightener.

Concrete Counters are Easy to Maintain

You’ll need to reseal your countertops every few years, but it’s a quick and easy job. When properly done, the counters won’t stain or harbor bacteria. They’ll clean up quickly with mild soap and warm water.

They Give an Upscale Look to Your Home

These counters will change your image of concrete. If you haven’t seen many concrete countertops, you owe it to yourself to contact an installer and take a look at their portfolio. What can be done with them is truly amazing, and the results add class and distinction to the kitchen

I have seen some great tutorials on DIY concrete countertops, and I have seen some not so great tutorials. Below are a few of the better DIY Concrete countertop tutorials out there that are fool proof. These countertops look great, and are very durable.

Even though it is DIY, it doesn’t have to look like you did it yourself. Do your homework and watch videos before you try and do this.

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Read this before your remodel your kitchen

If you are planning a DIY kitchen remodel you better stop and check out this checklist before the final kitchen is installed. You could be missing small details that are not so small after all.

  1. Is there plenty of counter space between appliances and sinks?
  2. Is there enough space in corners to open drawers and doors fully?
  3. Where will the pulls be placed on the cabinets? Will their design interfere with nearby appliance, door, or drawer openings?
  4. Is the microwave at the right height for pulling out hot items? Can children use it safely?
  5. Have you planned sufficient under cabinet lighting?
  6. Are light fixtures planned for above the sink, cooktop, or range? Have you planned where the light controls will be?
  7. Has the toe-kick below the cabinets been designed for the thickness of your flooring?
  8. Will the new kitchen floor match the style and height of flooring in adjoining rooms? How will it be joined? Don't make the mistake of using cheap flooring either. Quality will look better and last longer, consider the fact that more money spent may mean you don't have to replace it after a few years.
  9. Do you have plenty of electrical outlets? If you're planning an island or a peninsula, don't forget outlets there, too. The worst thing is to walk into a kitchen with one outlet! How will you use one outlet when you have a coffee machine, blender, toaster oven, mixer and so much more?
  10. Is the work flow uninterrupted? Traffic should go around the kitchen's work triangle -- not through it.
  11. Do you have enough storage space where you need it? Storage is a must in a kitchen. More storage means less clutter.
  12. Last but not least, will you enjoy your kitchen?

Starting a big remodel like your kitchen should not be a project taken lightly, as this remodel can make or break any value that you are trying to add to your home. A well planned kitchen remodel can transform your whole house.

Create a Zen inspired bathroom

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The first step to creating a Zen bathroom is to make sure the floor plan flows smoothly. Although zen is not a proper design style and does not come with a book of strict rules, it is often associated with simplicity and purity of lines. It is rather a way of arranging your home and creating an atmosphere that offsets the stress and hassle of your daily routine. zen-bathroom

Homeowners starting from scratch may want to remember that the bathtub works best when installed by a window in order to allow individuals to feel at one with nature while soaking. The view from the bathroom should be calm and attractive - if this is impossible, lush plants should be placed nearby in order to facilitate a feeling of connecting with nature. The bathroom should interact with adjacent rooms so that the view looking in and out of the bathroom is appealing and serene. The toilet area should not be seen from the doorway. Consider placing a beautiful piece of artwork within viewing distance of the toilet; let that art be the focal point from the doorway.

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Additionally, it's important to keep all of your surface areas clean, which may require purchasing a deeper medicine cabinet or a set of drawers. The zen approach is that of a minimalist, the less over stocking and stuff, the better for your design.  If you still don't have enough space, consider using woven reed boxes or baskets, two beautiful options which can also weather the steam from your shower. The thought of clutter free spaces and relaxation comes from the Japanese culture’s take on mental health and well-being. As well you will want to use as many candles as you'd like and don't be afraid to incorporate plenty of stones, flowers and other natural earth elements to give your zen inspired bathroom a perfect ambiance.

 

Finally, make sure your color scheme matches your new accents and fosters a feeling of relaxation. Go for the natural color scheme and stick to greens, browns, beiges and blues. If you're distracted by toiletry bottles, consider replacing them with decorative ones that blend into your tile or walls. Using naturally scented soaps, oils and bath salts can add to a more soothing experience and are a must in a Zen bathroom.

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All that's left to do is sit back, relax and let the stress melt away.

 

Awarded Best Of Design on Houzz 2016! Best in design 2 years in a row

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SPAZIO LA of Los Angeles, California

Awarded Best Of Design

 Houzz 2016

 

Over 35 Million Monthly Unique Users Nominated Best Home Building,

Remodeling and Design Professionals in North America and Around the World

 

January 12, 2016, Los Angeles, CaliforniaSPAZIO LA of North Hollywood has won “Best Of Design” on Houzz®, the leading platform for home remodeling and design, for the second year in a row. SPAZIO LA was chosen by more than 35 million monthly unique users that comprise the Houzz community from among more than one million active home building, remodeling and design industry professionals.

 

The Best Of Houzz is awarded annually in three categories: Design, Customer Service and Photography. Design award winners’ work was the most popular among the more than 35 million monthly users on Houzz. Customer Service honors are based on several factors, including the number and quality of client reviews a professional received in 2015. Architecture and interior design photographers whose images were most popular are recognized with the Photography award. A “Best Of Houzz 2016” badge will appear on winners’ profiles, as a sign of  their commitment to excellence. These badges help homeowners identify popular and top-rated home professionals in every metro area on Houzz.

 

SPAZIO LA helps the client realize their vision for their home & actually attain it.

“Anyone building, remodeling or decorating looks to Houzz for the most talented and service-oriented professionals” said Liza Hausman, vice president of Industry Marketing for Houzz. “We’re so pleased to recognize SPAZIO LA , voted one of our “Best Of Houzz” professionals by our enormous community of homeowners and design enthusiasts actively remodeling and decorating their homes.”

 

Follow SPAZIO LA  on Houzz: http://www.houzz.com/pro/spaziola/spazio-la

 

 

About SPAZIO LA :

SPAZIO LA’s vision is simple DREAM + DESIGN + BUILD

DREAM

From the mind of the client to reality, SPAZIO LA creates functional yet highly stylish spaces that clients had only dreamt of. Specializing in home design, decoration, & remodeling, SPAZIO LA helps the client realize their vision for their home & actually attain it.

DESIGN

 

The Award Winning man behind the designs, Ezekiel (ESSI) Safdie, has been designing homes in LA & Southern California since 2005. From painting & sculpting, to designing high fashion jewelry lines, Safdie has experience creating aesthetically pleasing, one-of-a kind works of art that not only showcase his incredible talent for design but also his need to succeed at everything he does. His multifaceted art background aids in his space planning from picking colors & textures, to the placement & flow each room. Safdie’s travels & appreciation for various cultural backgrounds are a continuous source of influence on his designs.

BUILD

Utilizing the latest cutting edge materials, SPAZIO LA homes are not only the envy of the neighborhood but also stand the test of time. Safdie & his team of designers have close relationships with reputable suppliers and retailers & craftsmen which will ensure the client not only the top-of the line materials but also cost-effective methods which equals more style with less cost.  SPAZIO LA is a licensed and bonded contractor firm that will ensure each project will be built up to code and with a five year warranty on all jobs.

So make sure your next home is professionally designed and built with the expertise that only SPAZIO LA can deliver.

 

About Houzz

Houzz is the leading platform for home remodeling and design, providing people with everything they need to improve their homes from start to finish – online or from a mobile device. From decorating a small room to building a custom home and everything in between, Houzz connects millions of homeowners, home design enthusiasts and home improvement professionals across the country and around the world. With the largest residential design database in the world and a vibrant community empowered by technology, Houzz is the easiest way for people to find inspiration, get advice, buy products and hire the professionals they need to help turn their ideas into reality. Headquartered in Palo Alto, CA, Houzz also has international offices in London, Berlin, Sydney, Moscow and Tokyo. Houzz and the Houzz logo are registered trademarks of Houzz Inc. worldwide. For more information, visit houzz.com.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The year of the bathroom remodel: 2016

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The year of the bathroom remodel: 2016 #1 Trend of 2016: Personalization

Bathroom remodels are taking over the world! Ok, not the world, but bathroom remodels are taking over the year. 2016 is going to be a big year for bathrooms that will dominate the remodel game. The number one trend in bathroom remodels will be; Personalization. The main reason for a homeowner to remodel their bathroom during 2016 will be to fit the room to their lifestyle and tailor to the needs of each family member. Kitchen remodels are taking a back seat this year.

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What you need to do to rock this year’s bathroom remodel:

-Focus attention on a main focal point in the bathroom. Emphasizing a bay window, free standing tub, or playing up the drama with a grand light fixture, are examples of creating a focal point. When someone walks into your newly remodeled bathroom you want them to be amazed, but also have one feature really stand out. Here is a good article to draw some inspiration for your focal point. http://www.bathrooms.com/inspiration/10-ways-to-create-a-focal-point/

- Make your fixtures bold, statement pieces. You may always hear that fixtures are an easy way to update your bathroom, but bold fixtures will give you better results.  Check out: http://www.hgtv.com/design/rooms/bathrooms/bold-new-fixtures-on-a-budget

- Modernize your bathroom with wall tile and subway tiles. Subway tiles have yet to go out of style, and this year slate gray, winter white, and cobalt blue color schemes are in trend. Wall tiles may be a great way to create a focal point with a patterned tile or design.

- Add a Walk in shower with frameless glass enclosures, and free standing tub to be ahead of the trends. This will add a spa like feature, and create more of a relaxing atmosphere.

- Turn to Zen inspired designs for that extra relaxing feel. Heated rocks, calming water features and indoor plants can add to this design.

Now you cannot skip out on Technology for your bathroom this year. On the level above water resistant sound systems, bathrooms are being equipped with self-cleaning toilets, and a new product from Kohler. Kohler has raised the bar this time, and developed a touchscreen Digital Showering System that is based on real life hydrotherapies. This DTV Digital Showering System has 6 user presets to help save your favored experience. What is the best part? We can’t decide if the temperature controlled settings, lights set to music, or hydrotherapy is our favorite. Best bet is to get this new technology installed in your bathroom remodel and let us know what your favorite feature is.

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Check back for more on bathroom remodeling and other great remodeling tips.

Los Angeles Remodeling – Why you can remodel too!

Los Angeles Remodeling – Why you can remodel too! Stop looking at all the reasons why you don’t think you can remodel your home, and start dreaming of what your home will look like after we are done with it. I am sure you can list all the cons and reasons to validate your reason for thinking negatively. We can list all the reasons why you should think different about kitchen remodeling, bathroom remodeling, and remodeling in general.

What your list looks like against remodeling:

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1. You think that your house, kitchen, bathroom, or square footage is too small for a nice remodel.

This is the perfect reason to start a remodel! We can increase square footage with an addition; this can transform your home and give you the space you want. We have experience tuning 750sq ft into over 2,000sq ft. If you don’t want to do an addition, we can change the layout of your room to function better and feel larger.

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2. The only thing that would make you happy is if your whole home layout where changed. You can’t see remodeling the kitchen because you hate that it is in the front of your house. You hate that you do not have an en suite master bathroom.

Nothing is permanent. We can move walls, remove walls, change the layout and plan of your house, add bathrooms, move your kitchen, make your home an open floor plan. You name it, we can do it. There is nothing more important to us than making our clients happy. We will take all your ideas and dreams and build them for you.

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3. You don’t think that you can afford a remodel.

The fact is that remodels can be expensive; there is no hiding that truth. You can afford a remodel, and we will tell you why. There are options for financing an eco-friendly remodel with a program called HERO. This program is an easy way to get your home updated and save the environment. Not only is there this program that we offer, but we can tell you what other options you have. You don’t have to live in a house that you hate anymore.

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Contact us today to go over your Remodeling options and talk about scheduling a Free in-house estimate.