Forget what they told you, this is really how long a remodel takes

Forget what they told you, this is really how long a remodel takes The common misconception is that remodels have to take forever long and always drag on and on after numerous issues. The stuff you read online when you search, “how long does a remodel take?” is downright frightening.   Who would want to remodel their house after horror stories and a super long time line? We are going to break down the remodel myths and get you on the right track to remodel facts.

Let’s talk about remodel issues foremost. It is true what they say about issues, they can pop up at any time, but the key is having a great remodel team like Spazio LA, behind you to solve issues fast or prevent them in most cases. No remodel team can see the future, but there are some that are specialized in the industry and know what signs to look for to prevent failure.

Now let’s talk about how long a remodel takes. A good remodel can take anywhere from 1 month and up – all depending on the size and complexity of the remodel. You can’t give an average time estimate when no two remodels are the same. No two remodels will require the same materials, same design and have the same team running them – therefore there is no average number of days or months that a remodel takes. But, we can talk about our remodel experience and how long it took our experienced team to complete our Spazio LA design projects.

To give you an idea of how long a remodel takes, we would love to share our Culver City remodel with you. This remodel took 10 weeks to complete from the time demo started to the time we were able to showcase the finished project. We remodeled 3 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, a full kitchen, two living rooms, an office and a laundry room. That's 11 rooms remodeled in 10 weeks, all thanks to great coordination and planning by our team of experts. Here are a few of the rooms, before and after remodel

This is Culver City kitchen before any remodel had taken place. You can see the layout of the kitchen is tight, and the existing color nor materials did it any justice. The design made the kitchen cramped and cut off from the rest of the house.

This is Culver City after a kitchen remodel! What an amazing difference without completely moving the kitchen. We created a larger kitchen by designing a small opening from the kitchen into the rest of the house and went with a two tone cabinet color scheme.

You can tell from these before images that the flooring material was used throughout the entire house, from kitchen and into the bathrooms. This Culver City bathroom went from outdated to...we you can see in the next image what we transformed it into. Hello beautiful! Now this is a remodel design that is bold and classy. Do not be afraid to use different floor materials in any of your remodel rooms.

Carpet may be one way to date a home, but it definitely is not child friendly. This living room needed a facelift if any room ever needed one.

Removing the carpet, and painting the walls a bold color gave this room a sleek style and focused attention toward the fireplace which was updated with a neutral color stone.

As you can tell from the few pictures we shared, beautiful remodels do not have to take forever and a day. To see the rest of this project and others just as perfect - check out our website.

Exterior remodeling guide 2016

Exterior remodeling guide 2016 We often focus solely on updating the inside of a home and leave the outside alone. However, the exterior is just as important to consider. Creating “curb appeal” is real estate language for making a good first impression. We drive out of our driveway every day and forget what we thought about our house the first time we saw it. When you bought your home, you definitely considered its curb appeal, or the potential of it. Giving a home an exterior facelift is an investment worth making. Your return on investment is the promise of increasing your home’s value, less maintenance with rot proof materials, cost saving efficiency, overall increased curb appeal and the enjoyment of your “new” home.

For many homes, just changing the front door would be a fantastic improvement to their homes exterior! It doesn’t have to be a daunting task. In fact, updating the exterior can be far less complicated than redoing a kitchen. Follow a before and after plan and create a vision for what you hope to achieve with the changes to come. To simplify and streamline the process even further, use of an architectural rendering of your house with all of the proposed changes will make life easy. An architectural rendering is an wonderful way to help you visualize and know for sure you are getting the look you want and see what the final result will be. Most home remodeling companies should be able to offer you a 3D computer generated rendering prior to any project getting started to give you an idea of what the outcome will be.

Whether you know exactly how you want to update your home's curb appeal or you're still looking for ideas, you will most likely use pictures of homes on the Internet, pictures of homes in magazines, or pictures of homes in your neighborhood to help you determine the design you desire for your home. At Spazio LA, we strongly encourage our clients to use pictures to describe their desired new look for their home, because in remodeling, the old saying "a picture is worth a thousand words" most definitely rings true. While we work closely with our clients to design a remodel that meets their wants, needs and their home's style, words alone never provide the confirmation that a picture can. Having a picture of desired new features, materials, styles and colors, ensures that both client and contractor share the same vision of the final outcome.

For instance with this particular exterior remodel we took our clients ideas and desires for their front entry way and created a 3D design to ensure that their vision and ours was meshing.

Making your bathroom safe for elderly and disabled

Making your bathroom safe for elderly and disabled This may not be obvious to you but the bathroom is one of the most dangerous places for those whom are aging or have disabilities. Spazio LA values the fact that everyone should be entitled to using the bathroom and showering with little to no assistance. We understand that without taking special consideration this may not be achievable. Let’s go over issues you may run into when designing this special bathroom.

Pay special attention to:

Door entrance clearance, height of countertops, toilet height, handrails, Light switches, sink and faucet heights, shower size and safety, and floor material and night lights. Non slip flooring should be used throughout the entire bathroom.

Keep the bathroom design simple and ultra-functional, this will limit difficulty and confusion. A note to limit clutter that could prevent a user from ease of function should be maintained and edges should be rounded for safety.

A standard wheel chair is 24-27in wide.

Wheelchair practical bathroom features

You should start with the basics of measurements when designing a bathroom that is handicap accessible and work your way up to the details. Remember that there should be non-slip flooring used, and the bathroom should have a min 60 inches of floor space.  If you are trying to accommodate someone whom is wheel chair bound you will need to ensure that the door way to enter the bathroom is a min of 36 inches to properly access the bathroom with a wheel chair. Showering can be made possible with roll up showers or barrier free showers for those in a wheel chair. These types of showers are floor level and allow the user to roll their chair directly into the shower; you can also install a permanent shower chair if desired.

Handles, hand rails should be at the level of the wheel chair user and you should install easy to use fixtures. Even using a standard toilet is a struggle when you are wheel chair bound, thus having a toilet that is adjustable to the desired height will eliminate the struggle to anyone with a disability and allow for the toilet to be easily accessed for someone without disabilities. Special toilets are designed for this reason, they are called toiletvators. 19 inches is the correct height for a wheel chair accessible toilet.

A sink should be built to the height of 34 inches and contain ample space below for a person to roll their wheel chair up to and reach the sink with ease. Sink faucets should be easy to turn on and off, you can get hand motion controlled and preset temperature faucets and soak dispensers if you worry about function or the chance of scalding.

For more information about handicap safe home design you can check out the ADA for guidelines.

If you or someone you know needs a special design for their home, you can contact us today!

Repair or replace your old deck?

Repair or replace your old deck? To repair or to replace your old deck is the question. Know when you can salvage what you have currently and know when it is better to scrap the deck and start fresh for your exterior. Loose boards and damaged wood can look like just a quick project from the surface – but you can run into more than you bargained for. Deck repair is a common exterior improvement project that adds value to your home and enjoyment to your outdoor living space. There are many reasons that decks may need repair, from structural to cosmetic. Many people try to repair their own decks, which can be an economical option if you have carpentry experience. If, however, you have little to no experience with carpentry, you will save money and time by hiring a contractor. This will ensure everything is done correctly, and your deck meets important safety guidelines and requirements so you can enjoy it for years to come.

Deck repair costs an average of $1,381 with many homeowners spending between $717 and $2,093. Although it requires an investment of time and money, it costs significantly less than replacement, as long as the deck is structurally intact and the wood is healthy. When your contractor inspects your deck, he or she will be able to tell you if it can be repaired or if you need to tear it out and start over. Here are some cost factors that play into the total cost of deck repair. Look for these signs that you will need to replace deck boards or potentially start fresh and build a new deck: Dry rot, mold or mildew, and termites.

Make sure your deck lasts this time around! To ensure that you don’t need to go through the whole process of repairing or replacing your  exterior deck again for the next few decades, make sure to properly clean and maintain it. It’s a good idea to set up a cleaning schedule to make sure your deck is getting the care it needs year-round. • Set aside time in the spring to give it a thorough wash, sweep and cleaning. Your contractor can recommend the best cleaner for your specific deck, which generally costs$10 to $30. Use the cleaner according to its specifications. For best results, choose a cloudy (but not rainy) day, so the sun won’t evaporate the cleaner. • Seal the deck in late spring, allowing two days for the task. During this step, replace any missing or popped nails and screws, and lightly sand the deck. • During summer, examine your deck for rot or mildew. Pay extra attention to the ledger, joists, posts and beams. • In the fall, set your deck up with a preventative maintenance plan. Sweep away debris and take care of any cleaning or sealing that you didn’t get around to in the spring. With this year-round plan, your deck will stay in great shape for years to come.

DIY Exterior projects award worthy

DIY Exterior projects award worthy Bringing that camping fire or bon fire feel to your backyard is easy. Exterior projects like DIY Fire Pits have grown ever more popular with most time being spent at home, and as outdoor fireplaces can run you in the upwards of $10,000. No matter if you are looking for an easy fire pit project or a more professional looking fire pit – your homes exterior is covered here. Fire pits can be created to be permanent or portable - this of this before designing. The no effort solution to your fire pit desires is attainable in a few steps. 1. Find a desired spot in your yard (10 feet from your home or a neighbor's home) and make level. 2. Purchase a fire pit (or DIY a fire pit) and seating. 3. Set up and enjoy! It’s as easy as that, seriously. But, if you are still scratching your head on number don’t fret. Poured concrete slabs are a great place to set up shop and land your fire pit site, but not the only place you can opt for. Great fire pit areas have been created by simply leveling the ground and pouring sand or going to the extreme of building a deck. Image credit: Jason Ellison This fire pit with built in seating is a great transition and use of the adjoined deck. Placing the deck above ground the designer was able to continue the deck and build custom seating for the fire pit. Image credit: HGTV Yard Takeovers

If you are looking for a more defined exterior fire pit you can contact a professional to design and build a custom fire pit. For safety - permanent seating or chairs should be 2 feet from an open flame. Wood burning, gas or even electric fire pits can be installed for a beautiful ambiance. This custom patio features a built in fire pit and seamless exterior design. Image credit: Scott Cohen Custom fire pits can be designed to have permanent bench seating and/or accent lighting. If you can dream it, it can be built to accentuate your home. Exterior design should not be overlooked when trying to upgrade your home or make it more comfortable. Safety tips to keep in mind when utilizing your newly designed fire pit: 1. A fire of any kind-small or roaring big-demands serious attention to safety. 2. Check wind direction before you light a fire 3. Don’t use flammable fluids (gasoline, lighter fluid, etc) to light or relight fires 4. Don’t wear flammable clothing (like nylon) or any loose-fit clothing 5. Avoid using soft woods like pine or cedar, because they can “pop” and throw sparks. 6. Know how to safely dispose of ashes

Your backyard design style finder made simple

Your backyard design style finder made simple This is California after all; we have the best weather around but like many you need to make the most of our outdoor spaces. You may cringe if I tell you describe the current state of your home’s exterior, so I will ask you to tell me what you dream for it to look like. Are you dreaming of a picture perfect pool alongside a massive outdoor kitchen, a Zen garden and water fountain to meditate in or lush paradise that reminds you of your favorite vacation? Small or large outdoor spaces can be made simple. Tip, tricks and inspiration to help you figure out what your backyard style is:

Design style: Modern with a chef flare

This large poolside, covered patio boasts a builtin BBQ and cooking area. This is a great way to spruce up your exterior and entertain in comfort. Modern concept of outdoor kitchen designs features almost everything that a regular kitchen has, but in a compact manner.Taking ideas from holiday resorts, an outdoor kitchen concept for homes may also accommodate a bar and a classy fireplace. To talk about functionality, a complete outdoor kitchen can be equipped with pergola, BBQ grill, refrigeration and enough storage.

Design style: Kid Friendly and Compact This outdoor space is perfectly arranged to give the adults a space to grill and chat while the kids have a space to call their own. Using multi-levels breaks up a small yard and makes it appear larger with more functionality.

Design style: Complementary Modern Using the multi-levels in this great back yard the home owner took one flat lot and created a fun outdoor space to enjoy. The small areas of grass and vegetation make this yard low on the list to keep up with yet add that pop of fresh plants that it needs to feel like a backyard getaway. Living in a tight space? Use tall, and thick plants as a natural screen to give you extra privacy.

Design style: Contemporary Clean and cutting edge design does not have to stop inside the door of your home. This yard is almost no maintenance, and includes a great water feature. Do not be afraid to add luxe furniture and pops of art to your patio or outdoor space.

If you didn't find your perfect backyard style here today, drop us a comment and tell us what your perfect outdoor space looks like.

Kick up your exterior to top notch !

Kick up your exterior to top notch ! curb ap·peal

NOUN

1. the attractiveness of a property and its surroundings when viewed from the street:

"landscaping, the front entrance, and the condition of the paint or siding are the biggest factors in curb appeal"

“Driving through Los Angeles neighborhoods and any like neighborhoods you will notice houses that can use a little sprucing up. We spend some much time on the inside of our homes that we forget when the outside needs attention. Curb appeal is important no matter if your home is on the market or not. Maybe you have just neglected the outside as you don’t have the time or budget to vamp it up.” Stop neglecting the exterior of your home! Exterior design and remodel is just as important as the kitchen remodel, you just may not know it.

Exterior remodel and exterior design can add value to your home in the upward tens of thousands of dollars. You may have not noticed that your curb appeal is downright lacking in the curb appeal game, but we have and we are here to help.

First we need to talk about a few Exterior materials that can be used on your home:

1. Wood siding

2. Stone veneer

3. Stucco

4. Metal siding

5. Brick

Stucco can be seen in many different colors and textures:

With all the options of exterior materials for your home, we have to include this detailed gallery to give you a better idea of what it looks like on a home.

This Los Angeles modern home makes a very bold "curb appeal" statement with a mix of stucco and wood siding. Clean lines and minimal landscape design give this exterior something to be proud of.

This Spanish style cottage in LA gives the front entrance a tropical feel with stucco and an authentic tile door way.

A traditional Los Angeles home is tucked behind a white picket fence to showcase wood siding exterior and a faux balcony. Stone pillars connect this crisp fence and gated driveway.

This screams mid century meets contemporary exterior for the new crowd of Los Angeles. IPE siding and cement create this beauty.

Modern Spazio LA design showcasing cement, IPE fencing and siding - such a show stopper! This house's curb appeal has the neighbors green with envy.

Exterior design and deck living made lavish

Exterior design and deck living With the way things are in the economy it is no wonder why homeowners are trying to make their homes as comfortable as possible, this is where we spend most of our time outside of work. As homeowners look to enhance their outdoor living space with outdoor amenities like kitchens, fireplaces, furnished living rooms and spas, the deck continues to be a major design factor in new home construction. What better way to enjoy all the same great amenities you have inside your home than by designing a stylish and functional outdoor living space on a customized deck. Exterior design is something that you should not forget about.

Here are some of the latest trends in decks that can help you create an exciting backyard retreat:

The biggest trend in decks right now is increasing the square footage. Homeowners that were once satisfied with a 20 x 10 foot deck for a grill and some patio furniture now want a deck design that rivals their homes square footage. You'll find many larger homes are being designed with a multilevel deck for different functions like an outdoor kitchen or sun deck and spa. Many designs use pergolas and walls to add privacy and lots of built-ins for extra seating, storage and more.

With all the latest products available for outdoor lighting, appliances, fireplaces and pits, homeowners are extending their outdoor living well past the spring and summer. Where temperature is not such an issue, people are designing their decks as an addition to their home, including folding Nana walls. Gone are the tiki torches and candles, today's low-voltage lighting is much more sophisticated and can be wired into the steps and posts of your deck to extend the time you spend outdoors and create ambiance.

A big trend is creating an outdoor kitchen that has all the amenities of its indoor counterparts like a grill or cooktop surface, cabinets, countertops, refrigerators and sinks. Outdoor furniture has taken on a whole new look with tables and chairs being constructed of weather-resistant materials that mimic the look of lavish interior furniture.

With so many options available, homeowners are literally creating an outdoor home where the deck is the focal point for adding a kitchen, dining room, living room, spa and even an entertainment area. The only limitation with designing your new deck is your imagination and budget.

Interior Decorating made easy: Choosing a Focal Point

Interior Decorating made easy: Choosing a Focal Point There is no Interior Decorator Rule Book that designers have or hand out to the rest of us normal home owners that are looking to get their house decorated like the magazines. If you are like most, you have seen these great images of breath taking home décor and you want to replicate it or get your own style. It becomes too obvious that this is harder to accomplish than we think. You wanted that bold look or something to pop and draw in attention; you want a great Focal Point.

A great designer once said, “Don’t ask everything to have a leading role; it will just result in visual noise.” There are main cast members and supporting roles in every movie, this goes the same way for great designs and interior decorating. You must choose your star and have all of your other décor items there only for support.

Your focal point can be a dramatic hood in the kitchen, a large clawfoot tub in the bathroom, or a piece of art in your main living room. No matter what you choose, you have to understand that this is your main focal point, the star of the show an all the other elements are just there. Have a look at this gallery of Focal Points and gather ideas to take to your Interior Decorator.

The focal point in this Victorian inspired bathroom is most certainly the porcelain vanity and large mirror.

Over sized eclectic artwork draws the eye and adds that pop of color creating the focal point of this room.

When you move furniture and decor around it changes the dynamic and focal point of any room, with this custom stone fireplace the focal point remains the same.

A focal point does not have to necessarily be decor - your attention is instantly drawn to the coffered ceiling in this design.

Budget friendly is this hallway focal point to say the least. Interior decor doesn't have to break the bank. If over sized art is out of budget, opt for the DIY photo or mirror collage as your focal point.

Creating a fabulous focal point in any room is a great way to re-energize a space, and creating a focal point can usually be done by anyone.  Creating a focal point is also a great way to take the focus off of the less attractive features of a room. If you have any great ideas to add to this please leave a comment below.

Indoor Outdoor Room Design

Indoor Outdoor Room Design Having the luxuries of the indoors mixed with the space of the outdoors, this is the key in creating the perfect indoor outdoor room. With the help of lush furniture, great accessories and retractable walls this is one experience that every homeowner can have. A kitchen that open up to your patio, an outdoor kitchen that open up to your living room, a master bedroom private garden - the possibilities are endless. Take a look at the indoor outdoor gallery and gather ideas for your own personal indoor outdoor room experience.

This brick exterior house is injected with outdoor living rooms tucked between its trio of volumes, extending traditional living into outdoor entertaining areas.

This is the perfect indoor outdoor room with perfect amenities like a flat screen tv safe in the transition space and high end furniture and rugs.

Double-height glass doors slide back to open up an entire facade of this house to the back yard and pool by architect Pitsou Kedem.

Amazing sliding glass doors allowing you to open up the space, connecting the outdoors with the house in one easy step.

The range consists of beautiful, easy to install systems, including options for wall or ceiling mount sliding glass doors with or without fixed panels.

The sliding exterior glass walls also open up the house to the outdoors, extending living locations well beyond its walls.

Contact us today to get your custom indoor outdoor room design. 1.877.624.7772

Decorating Small Bathrooms

So many people are into the DIY remodeling mode these days. Just look around if you have cable and you will be able to see program after program dedicated to remodeling the home. There are even channels out there that have nothing but remodeling advice. Many of the programs are niche related programs that deal with how to remodel bathrooms or kitchens or basements. Well, once you remodel these rooms you will eventually have to accessorize. But how do you do that? Don’t Over Do it

The key to remodeling and accessorizing small bathrooms is to not over do it when you are planning on filling the space with different items, and large items at that.  You want to have just enough accessories in there that are needed but not too many these that will just end up cluttering the space. Here are a few items that may look great in a small bathroom, that you probably never thought about. Remember to keep it simple, avoid clutter, add personality and save space. Some accessories to help you do this are:

Paper Towel Holder

You always want to make sure that you have the nice and expensive hand towels that are just for display but you have to remember that people will need to dry their hands after washing them. Fir this you will need a paper towel holder to dispense disposable hand towels. This type of accessory can be screwed into the wall or just rest on the counter top. They actually make very decorative paper towel holders that rest on the counter top these days. They are much better suited if you are going for a certain style or decor in your bathroom. The paper towel holders that are screwed into the wall are sort of a thing of the past.

Tooth Brush Holder Sets

These types of sets can also be very decorative, even if they don’t contain tooth brushes at all. For example, if you were going for a nice seasonal theme such as winter or fall, you can probably find a nice tooth brush holder set that will match these themes. Pair these with your soap dishes, makeup storage and things of that nature and your counter top is set.

Small Pictures and Mirrors

It is always a good idea to include pictures and mirrors on the wall of your small bathrooms. This is a way for you to show off your personality a little and give the room some life. This is also a way to incorporate more theme type items into the room.

You can create a one of a kind bathroom no matter the square footage.

Take your new bathroom and turn back time to Vintage bathroom remodel

Take your new bathroom and turn back time to Vintage If you are searching for great vintage bathroom remodel ideas you are in the right place. Remodeling any room is difficult when you love more than one style, but vintage bathrooms are even harder to recreate when you have so many small details to remember. With this vintage remodel you will have to worry about everything matching so perfectly.

Mix and match storage units in your vintage bathroom remodel. The distressed table fits perfect into this retro bathroom.

Arranging a mixture of different size and shaped antique mirrors is a fabulous way to draw in light to your small vintage bathroom remodel.

Vintage bathroom designs, which are easily adapted to showcase the style of one or more eras, are equally at home in historical mansions, coastal cottages, city brownstones, and suburban ranches. Explore our vintage bathroom ideas to find inspiration for crafting bathrooms that spill over with collected charm and period-perfect profiles. Take a look and see how beaded-board wainscoting separated from painted upper walls by substantial chair rails partner with floors crafted from tiny octagonal porcelain or marble tiles to set the stage for early-20th-century bathroom designs. Take vintage bathrooms to the retro side by using floor patterns of 1950 and claw foot tubs.

The fastest way to get that vintage bathroom remodel look you desire? Install vanities crafted from vintage dressers or antique sideboards, and use heirloom armoires or weathered farm cabinets for linen storage. You can easily create your own vanity with a vintage dresser, porcelain sink and vintage mirror. Vintage doesn’t have to mean old, you can choose stock or custom vanities that sport decorative moldings, raised embellishments, and distressed finishes such as the chalkboard effect. Cast-iron towel hooks, porcelain-handle faucets, and reproduction lighting -- along with antique bathroom fixtures like refurbished claw-foot tubs, pedestal sinks, and stainless-steel medicine cabinets to will help you recreate a vintage bathroom's age-old leanings and ageless attitude.

Pictured above is an antique serpentine dresser and mirror purposed into a vintage vanity.

Bathroom décor & design fails and flops

Bathroom décor & design fails and flops Avoid making common mistakes when it comes to decorating and designing your bathroom remodel. Ever walk into a bathroom and gasp at the thought that they paid money for the décor and design? Don’t let other people think the same about your bathroom. We understand that you may not have a large budget, but there are ways to spend little money and make a big impact.

When most bathroom remodel designs are started, the shower and vanity and toilet are talked about and planned for, but don’t forget about planning for storage. Storage should be carefully planned into your design from day one. Where will you store clean towels, your toiletries, toothbrushes, etc.? By planning for your storage you can avoid a décor fail when you need to squeeze an oversized towel cupboard into a small corner once the bathroom remodel is complete. More storage is better than not enough storage. The great thing about remodel companies today is the fact that almost anything can be custom built or built in to your house. Custom vanities and storage compartments can be designed for your remodel needs and taste, and even be hidden or turned into art.

Let’s get to the point and start talking about color and size. The size of your bathroom should be taken into account when choosing a color. Dark color schemes will make a bathroom harder to see in, which is not good for makeup application or for getting ready, as well as make the room appear smaller. If you have a large bathroom to design and decorate, using dark colors against a pale or neutral color pattern are acceptable. For small bathrooms think of light or pastel colors, and amplify light. You can always add bold décor items later to the space and your style may change, so keep the color simple.

Common Remodeling Terminology

Common remodeling terminology Is it just me or are there too many terms and construction words that make remodeling even more confusing than it has to be? Before you take on a remodeling project, get hip with the words you will hear on a daily basis. This may help you get what you want with your project and prevent a complete remodel fail. Plus your remodel team will be very impressed when you know just what they are talking about.

A/C - An abbreviation for air conditioner or air conditioning.

A/C Condenser - The outside fan unit of the air conditioning system. It removes the heat from the Freon gas, 'turns' the gas back into a liquid, and pumps the liquid back to the coil in the furnace.

A/C Disconnect - The main electrical ON-OFF switch near the A/C condenser.

ABS - A type of black plastic pipe commonly used for waste water lines.

Aerator - The round screened screw-on tip of a sink spout. It mixes water and air for a smooth flow.

Aggregate - A mixture of sand and stone and a major component of concrete.

Air Space - The area between insulation facing and interior of exterior wall coverings.

Allowance - A sum of money set aside in the construction contract for items which have not been selected and specified in the construction contract. For example, selection of tile as a flooring may require an allowance for an underlayment material, or an electrical a

Ampere - A unit of electrical current or volume--see 'Voltage.' Most homes have an electrical service 'entrance' package of 125 or 200 amps. Some older homes have 60 or 100 amp 'entrances'.

Appraisal - An expert valuation of property.

Architect - One who has completed a course of study in building and design, and is licensed by the state as an architect. One who draws up plans and sometimes supervises the construction of homes.

Asbestos - A common form of magnesium silicate used in various construction products due to its stability and resistance to fire. Asbestos exposure, by inhaling loose asbestos fibers, is associated with various forms of lung disease.

Assessment - A tax levied on a property, or a value placed on the worth of a property.

Assumption - Allows a buyer to assume responsibility for an existing loan instead of getting a new loan. The assumption may have to be approved by the lender.

Attic Ventilators - Screened openings in houses to allow for ventilation of an attic space.

B

Backing - Frame lumber installed between the wall studs to give additional support for drywall or an interior trim related item, such as handrail brackets, cabinets, and towel bars. In this way, items are screwed and mounted into solid wood rather than weak drywall

Backout - Work the framing contractor does after the mechanical (heating, plumbing & electrical) subcontractors finish their phase of work at the rough stage prior to insulating to get the home ready for a municipal frame inspection. Generally, the framing contract

Backset - The term backset is used to explain the distance from the edge of the door to the center of the hole drilled for your knob, lever or deadbolt.

Baffles - Device to help achieve a ventilation space between insulation and roof sheathing. It helps assure air flow from the eave vents in attics and cathedral ceilings.

Ballast - A transformer that steps up the voltage in a florescent lamp.

Balusters - Vertical members in a railing used between a top rail and bottom rail or the stair treads. Sometimes referred to as 'pickets' or 'spindles.'

Balustrade - The rail, posts and vertical balusters along the edge of a stairway or elevated walkway.

Band Joist - Vertical member that forms the perimeter of a floor system in which the floor joists tie in. Also known as the rim joist.

Barrel Vault - A vaulted ceiling of semi-circular shape, creating a dome-like appearance.

Bay window - A composite of three windows, usually made up of a large center unit and two flanking units at 30- or 45-degree angles to the wall.

Beam - A horizontal framing member designed to carry a load from a set of joists or a roof and spanning an open space. Beams are typically 6 inches by 6 inches or 4 inches by 10 inches or larger.

Bi-Level - A home that has two levels which are split to two half levels.

Blue Print(s) - A type of copying method often used for architectural drawings. Usually used to describe the drawing of a structure that is prepared by an architect or designer for the purpose of design and planning, estimating, securing permits and actual construction.

Bond or Bonding - An amount of money that must be on deposit with a governmental agency in order to secure a contractor's license. If, at the conclusion of a project, there is dispute about the work of the contractor or unpaid bills, the bond may be used for payment.

Bonded - An amount of money deposited with a Government Agency which greatly exceeds the minimum requirement.

Bonus Room - A room with no specifically designated function, unlike a living room, bedroom, or kitchen. This room is not included in the initial square footage.

Bottom Plate - The lowest horizontal member of a wall which rests on the rough floor, to which the studding is nailed.

Braced Framing - A construction method in two-story homes in which the frame is reinforced with posts and braces.

Brick Veneer - A vertical facing of brick laid against and fastened to sheathing of a framed wall or tile wall construction.

Builder's Risk Insurance - Insurance coverage on a construction project during construction, including extended coverage that may be added for the contract for the customer's protections.

Building Code - A comprehensive set of laws that controls the construction or remodeling of a home or other structure.

Bull Nose Drywall - Rounded drywall corners.

C

Cantilever - A projecting structure supported on one end, such as a balcony.

Casing - Molding of various widths, thickness and shapes applied to the framework of window and door units.

Caulking - A flexible material used to seal a gap between two surfaces e.g. between pieces of siding or the corners in tub walls.

Cavity - The empty space between studs or joists to place insulation batts.

Central Air Conditioning - A system which uses ducts to distribute cooled and/or dehumidified air to more than one room or uses pipes to distribute chilled water to heat exchangers in more than one room, and is not plugged into an electrical convenience outlet.

Change Order - A written construction document which modifies the plans and specifications and/or the price of the construction contract.

Chip board - A manufactured wood panel composed of 1- and 2-inch wood chips and glue. It is often incorrectly used as a substitute for plywood. Chip board is also known as OSB.

Circuit Breaker - A device that looks like a switch and is located inside the electrical panel or circuit breaker box in a home or building. A regular circuit breaker switch is designed to shut off the power to the portion of the home it controls and also limits the amount of current to the circuit that is connected to it.

Coffered Ceiling - A ceiling with recessed square panels, bordered with trim for ornamental purposes.

Concrete Board - A panel composed of concrete and fiberglass usually used as a tile backing material.

Conduit - A tube or duct for enclosing electric wires or other cables.

Construction Contract - A legal document that includes the specifics of what-when-where-how-how much and by whom of a construction project. It usually includes the contractors registration number, a statement of work quality such as 'Standard Practices of the Trades.'

Construction Documents - All drawings, specifications and addenda associated with a specific construction project.

Contractor - One who is licensed to perform construction activities.

CPVC - A type of white plastic pipe sometimes used for water supply lines.

Crawlspace Foundation - The space between the ground and the first floor of a home, usually no higher than four feet.

Crawlspace Vent - An opening to allow the passage of air through the unexcavated area under a first floor. Ideally there should be at least two vents per crawlspace.

Crown Molding - A molding used on cornice or wherever an interior angle is to be covered, especially at the ceiling to wall corner.

D

Daisy Chain - A wiring scheme in which device A is wired to device B, device B is wired to device C, etc. The last device is normally wired to a switch or circuit breaker.

De-humidistat - A control mechanism used to operate a mechanical ventilation system based upon the relative humidity in the home.

Dentil - One of a series of small projecting rectangular blocks forming a molding under an overhang, most common in colonial-style homes.

Designer - One who designs houses, interiors, landscaping or other objects. When utilized in the context of residential construction, it usually suggests that a designer is not a licensed architect.

Dormer - A space protruding from the roof of a house, usually including one or more windows.

Double glazing - Use of two panes of glass in a window to increase energy efficiency and provide other performance benefits.

Draw - The amount of progress billings on a contract that is currently available to a contractor under a contract with a fixed payment schedule.

Dry Rot - A common wood-destroying organism that develops when wood-containing material is exposed to moisture and poor air circulation for at least 6 months. Often and incorrectly referred to as dry rot.

Drywall - A wall finish consisting of a manufactured panel made out of gypsum plaster and encased in a thin cardboard. The panels are nailed or screwed onto the framing and the joints are taped and covered with a 'joint compound'.

Duct - A rigid metal or flexible insulated tube, designed to deliver air to and from a furnace or other air-handling unit.

Ductwork - A system of large tubes, pipes or channels (ducts) designed to deliver air to and from a furnace or other air-handling unit.

E

Earthquake Strap - A metal strap used to secure gas hot water heaters to the framing or foundation of a house. It is intended to reduce the chances of having the water heater fall over in an earthquake, causing a gas leak.

Easement - A formal contract that allows a party to use another party's property for a specific purpose. For instance, a sewer easement might allow one party to run a sewer line through a neighbor’s property.

Eave Vent - Vent opening located in the soffit under the eaves of a house to allow the passage of air through the attic and out the roof vents.

Eaves - The projecting overhang at the lower edge of a roof.

Electrical Rough - Work performed by the Electrical Contractor to the point where all outlet, switch, and fixture boxes are installed, and all electrical wires are run (before insulation and drywall).

Electrical Service Panel - Refers to the high-voltage electrical system’s first point of entry into a home beyond the meter.

Electricity - Provides power for lighting, appliances, and heating & cooling in a home. A meter records usage for billing by your local utility.

Elevations - The exterior view of a home design that shows the position of the house relative to the grade of the land.

Estimating - The process of calculating the cost of a project. This can be either a formal or a quick and imprecise process.

Exterior Envelope - The part of the building that consists of all of the elements protecting it from the elements including roofing, siding, windows, exterior doors, porches, flashing trim, caulking, waterproof decking, venting systems, and chimneys

F

Fascia - Horizontal boards attached to rafter/truss ends at the eaves and along gables. Roof drain gutters are attached to the fascia.

Finials - Also called decorative tips, these may come in different shapes, such as balls or pointed steeples, which attach to the top and bottom of a hinge for decoration. Only some hinges will accept these finials.

Fixed (window) - Non-venting or non-operable.

Fixed Price Contract - A contract with a set price for the work.

Flashing - The building component used to connect portions of a roof, deck, or siding material to another surface such as a chimney, wall, or vent pipe. Often made out of various metals, rubber or tar and is mostly intended to prevent water entry.

Flat Ceiling - A ceiling with no change in elevation.

Footing - Trenches of poured concrete around the perimeter of the house and below each pier or column that supports and distributes the weight of the house to the ground.

Forced Air Heating - A common form of heating with natural gas, propane, oil or electricity as a fuel. Air is heated in the furnace and distributed through a set of metal ducts to various areas of the house.

Frame - The enclosure in which window sash or door panels are mounted.

Framer - The carpenter contractor that installs the lumber and erects the frame, flooring system, interior walls, backing, trusses, rafters, decking, installs all beams, stairs, soffits and all work related to the wood structure of the home.

Framing - The structural wood and/or metal elements of most homes. The floor and ceiling framing is called the joist work. Wall framing is usually made out of 2 inches by 4 inches or 2 inches by 6 inch studs.

French hinged door - Hinged door(s) that has (have) wider panel members around the glass.

French sliding door - Sliding door having wider panel members around the glass, giving the appearance of a French hinged door.

Fungal Wood Rot - A common wood-destroying organism that develops when wood-containing material is exposed to moisture and poor air circulation for at least 6 months. Often and incorrectly referred to as dry rot.

Furring Strip - Flat piece of lumber used to build up an irregular framing to an even surface, either the leveling of a part of a wall or ceiling.

G

GFCI, or GFI - Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter- an ultra sensitive plug designed to shut off all electric current. Used in bathrooms, kitchens, exterior waterproof outlets, garage outlets, and "wet areas". Has a small reset button on the plug.

Gable - The end, upper, triangular area of a home, beneath the roof.

Gate valve - A valve that lets you completely stop—but not modulate—the flow within a pipe.

General Contractor - A contractor who enters into a contract with the owner of a project for the construction of the project and who takes full responsibility for its completion, although the contractor

may enter into subcontracts with others for the performance of specific parts or phases of the project.

Glued Laminated Beam (Glulam) - A structural beam composed of wood laminations or lams. The lams are pressure bonded with adhesives to attain a typical thickness of 1 ½". (It looks like 5 or more 2 X 4's are glued together).

Grade - Ground level, or the elevation at any given point. Also the work of leveling dirt.  Also the designated quality of a manufactured piece of wood.

Grade beam - A foundation wall that is poured @ level with or just below the grade of the earth. An example is the area where the 8' or 16' overhead garage door "block out" is located, or a lower (walk out basement) foundation wall is poured.

Grain - The direction, size, arrangement, appearance, or quality of the fibers in wood.

Grid - The completed assembly of main and cross tees in a suspended ceiling system before the ceiling panels are installed. Also the decorative slats (munton) installed between glass panels.

Ground - Refers to electricity's habit of seeking the shortest route to earth. Neutral wires carry it there in all circuits. An additional grounding wire or the sheathing of the metal-clad cable or conduit—protects against shock if the neutral leg is interrupted.

Ground fault - Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI, GFI) - an ultra sensitive plug designed to shut off all electric current. Used in bathrooms, kitchens, exterior waterproof outlets, garage outlets, and "wet areas". Has a small reset button on the plug.

Groundwater - Water from an aquifer or subsurface water source.

Gyp board - Drywall. Wall board or gypsum- A panel (normally 4' X 8', 10', 12', or 16') made with a core of Gypsum (chalk-like) rock, which covers interior walls and ceilings.

Gypsum plaster - Gypsum formulated to be used with the addition of sand and water for base-coat plaster.

H

Hazard insurance - Protection against damage caused by fire, windstorms, or other common hazards. Many lenders require borrowers to carry it in an amount at least equal to the mortgage.

Header - (a) A beam placed perpendicular to joists and to which joists are nailed in framing for a chimney, stairway, or other opening. (b) A wood lintel. (c) The horizontal structural member over an opening (for example over a door or window).

Hearth - The fireproof area directly in front of a fireplace. The inner or outer floor of a fireplace usually made of brick, tile, or stone.

Heating load - The amount of heating required to keep a building at a specified temperature during the winter, usually 65° F, regardless of outside temperature.

Heat meter - An electrical municipal inspection of the electric meter breaker panel box.

Heat pump - A mechanical device which uses compression and decompression of gas to heat and/or cool a house.

Heat Rough - Work performed by the Heating Contractor after the stairs and interior walls are built. This includes installing all duct work and flue pipes. Sometimes, the furnace and fireplaces are installed at this stage of construction.

Heat Trim - Work done by the Heating Contractor to get the home ready for the municipal Final Heat Inspection. This includes venting the hot water heater, installing all vent grills, registers, air conditioning services, turning on the furnace, installing thermostats, venting ranges and hoods, and all other heat related work.

Hip - A roof with four sloping sides. The external angle formed by the meeting of two sloping sides of a roof.

Hip roof - A roof that rises by inclined planes from all four sides of a building.

Humidifier - An appliance normally attached to the furnace, or portable unit device designed to increase the humidity within a room or a house by means of the discharge of water vapor.

Hurricane clip - Metal straps that are nailed and secure the roof rafters and trusses to the top horizontal wall plate. Sometimes called a Teco clip.

H V A C - An abbreviation for Heat, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning.

I

Incandescent lamp - A lamp employing an electrically charged metal filament that glows at white heat. A typical light bulb.

Index - The interest rate or adjustment standard that determines the changes in monthly payments for an adjustable rate loan.

Infiltration - The passage of air from indoors to outdoors and vice versa; term is usually associated with drafts from cracks, seams or holes in buildings.

Insulation - Any material high in resistance to heat transmission that, when placed in the walls, ceiling, or floors of a structure, and will reduce the rate of heat flow.

Interior finish - Material used to cover the interior framed areas of walls and ceilings.

Irrigation - Lawn sprinkler system.

J

J Channel - Metal edging used on drywall to give the edge a better finished appearance when a wall is not "wrapped" Generally, basement stairway walls have drywall only on the stair side. J Channel is used on the vertical edge of the last drywall sheet.

Joint - The location between the touching surfaces of two members or components joined and held together by nails, glue, cement, mortar, or other means.

Joint cement or Joint compound - A powder that is usually mixed with water and used for joint treatment in gypsum-wallboard finish. Often called "spackle" or drywall mud.

Joist - Wooden 2 X 8's, 10's, or 12's that run parallel to one another and support a floor or ceiling, and supported in turn by larger beams, girders, or bearing walls.

K

Keeper - The metal latch plate in a door frame into which a doorknob plunger latches.

Kilowatt (kw) - One thousand watts. A kilowatt hour is the base unit used in measuring electrical consumption. Also see watt.

Knot - In lumber, the portion of a branch or limb of a tree that appears on the edge or face of the piece.

Laminating - Bonding together two or more layers of materials.

Landing - A platform between flights of stairs or at the termination of a flight of stairs. Often used when stairs change direction. Normally no less than 3 ft. X 3 ft. square.

Lap - To cover the surface of one shingle or roll with another.

Latch - A beveled metal tongue operated by a spring-loaded knob or lever. The tongue's bevel lets you close the door and engage the locking mechanism, if any, without using a key. Contrasts with dead bolt.

Ledger (for a Structural Floor) - The wooden perimeter frame lumber member that bolts onto the face of a foundation wall and supports the wood structural floor.

Ledger strip - A strip of lumber nailed along the bottom of the side of a girder on which joists rest.

Level - True horizontal. Also a tool used to determine level.

Load bearing wall - Includes all exterior walls and any interior wall that is aligned above a support beam or girder. Normally, any wall that has a double horizontal top plate.

Lookout - A short wood bracket or cantilever that supports an overhang portion of a roof.

Mantel - The shelf above a fireplace opening. Also used in referring to the decorative trim around a fireplace opening.

Manufactured wood - A wood product such as a truss, beam, gluelam, microlam or joist which is manufactured out of smaller wood pieces and glued or mechanically fastened to form a larger piece. Often used to create a stronger member which may use less wood. See also Oriented Strand Board.

Masonry - Stone, brick, concrete, hollow-tile, concrete block, or other similar building units or materials. Normally bonded together with mortar to form a wall.

Mastic - A pasty material used as a cement (as for setting tile) or a protective coating (as for thermal insulation or waterproofing).

Metal lath - Sheets of metal that are slit to form openings within the lath. Used as a plaster base for walls and ceilings and as reinforcing over other forms of plaster base.

Millwork - Generally all building materials made of finished wood and manufactured in millwork plants. Includes all doors, window and door frames, blinds, mantels, panel work, stairway components (balusters, rail, etc.), moldings, and interior trim. Does not include flooring, ceiling, or siding.

Miter joint - The joint of two pieces at an angle that bisects the joining angle. For example, the miter joint at the side and head casing at a door opening is made at a 45° angle.

Molding - A wood strip having an engraved, decorative surface.

Mortar - A mixture of cement (or lime) with sand and water used in masonry work.

Muriatic acid - Commonly used as a brick cleaner after masonry work is completed.

N

Nail inspection - An inspection made by a municipal building inspector after the drywall material is hung with nails and screws (and before taping).

Natural finish - A transparent finish which does not seriously alter the original color or grain of the natural wood. Natural finishes are usually provided by sealers, oils, varnishes, water repellent preservatives, and other similar materials.

NEC (National Electrical Code) - A set of rules governing safe wiring methods. Local codes—which are backed by law—may differ from the NEC in some ways.

Neutral wire - Usually color-coded white, this carries electricity from an outlet back to the service panel. Also see hot wire and ground.

Nonbearing wall - A wall supporting no load other than its own weight.

Nosing - The projecting edge of a molding or drip or the front edge of a stair tread.

O

OC (On Center) - The measurement of spacing for studs, rafters, and joists in a building from the center of one member to the center of the next.

Outrigger - An extension of a rafter beyond the wall line. Usually a smaller member nailed to a larger rafter to form a cornice or roof overhang.

Outside corner - The point at which two walls form an external angle, one you usually can walk around.

Overhang - Outward projecting eave-soffit area of a roof; the part of the roof that hangs out or over the outside wall. See also Cornice.

P

Padding - A material installed under carpet to add foot comfort, isolate sound, and to prolong carpet life.

Pad out, pack out - To shim out or add strips of wood to a wall or ceiling in order that the finished ceiling/wall will appear correct.

Paint - A combination of pigments with suitable thinners or oils to provide decorative and protective coatings. Can be oil based or latex water based.

Pallets - Wooden platforms used for storing and shipping material. Forklifts and hand trucks are used to move these wooden platforms around.

Panel - A thin flat piece of wood, plywood, or similar material, framed by stiles and rails as in a door (or cabinet door), or fitted into grooves of thicker material with molded edges for decorative wall treatment.

Paper, building - A general term for papers, felts, and similar sheet materials used in buildings without reference to their properties or uses. Generally comes in long rolls.

Parapet - A wall placed at the edge of a roof to prevent people from falling off.

Parting stop or strip - A small wood piece used in the side and head jambs of double hung windows to separate the upper sash from the lower sash.

Particle board - Plywood substitute made of course sawdust that is mixed with resin and pressed into sheets. Used for closet shelving, floor underlayment, stair treads, etc.

Partition - A wall that subdivides spaces within any story of a building or room.

Paver, paving – Materials, commonly masonry, laid down to make a firm, even surface.

Payment schedule - A pre-agreed upon schedule of payments to a contractor usually based upon the amount of work completed. Such a schedule may include a deposit prior to the start of work. There may also be a temporary 'retainer' (5-10% of the total cost of the job) at the end of the contract for correcting any small items which have not been completed or repaired.

Pedestal - A metal box installed at various locations along utility easements that contain electrical, telephone, or cable television switches and connections.

Penalty clause - A provision in a contract that provides for a reduction in the amount otherwise payable under a contract to a contractor as a penalty for failure to meet deadlines or for failure of the project to meet contract specifications.

Penny - As applied to nails, it originally indicated the price per hundred. The term now series as a measure of nail length and is abbreviated by the letter "d". Normally, 16d (16 "penny") nails are used for framing.

Percolation test or perc. Test - Tests that a soil engineer performs on earth to determine the feasibility of installing a leech field type sewer system on a lot. A test to determine if the soil on a proposed building lot is capable of absorbing the liquid affluent from a septic system.

Performance bond - An amount of money (usually 10% of the total price of a job) that a contractor must put on deposit with a governmental agency as an insurance policy that guarantees the contractors' proper and timely completion of a project or job.

Perimeter drain - 3" or 4" perforated plastic pipe that goes around the perimeter (either inside or outside) of a foundation wall (before backfill) and collects and diverts ground water away from the foundation. Generally, it is "daylighted" into a sump pit inside the home, and a sump pump is sometimes inserted into the pit to discharge any accumulation of water.

Permeability - A measure of the ease with which water penetrates a material.

Permit - A governmental municipal authorization to perform a building process as in:

      Zoning\Use permit - Authorization to use a property for a specific use e.g. a garage, a single family residence etc.

      Demolition permit - Authorization to tear down and remove an existing structure.

      Grading permit - Authorization to change the contour of the land.

      Septic permit - A health department authorization to build or modify a septic system.

      Building permit - Authorization to build or modify a structure.

      Electrical permit - A separate permit required for most electrical work.

      Plumbing permit - A separate permit required for new plumbing and larger modifications of existing plumbing systems.

Pigtails, electrical - The electric cord that the electrician provides and installs on an appliance such as a garbage disposal, dishwasher, or range hood.

Pier - A column of masonry, usually rectangular in horizontal cross section, used to support other structural members. Also see Caisson.

Pigment - A powdered solid used in paint or enamel to give it a color.

Pilot hole - A small-diameter, pre-drilled hole that guides a nail or screw.

Pilot light - A small, continuous flame (in a hot water heater, boiler, or furnace) that ignites gas or oil burners when needed.

Pitch - The incline slope of a roof or the ratio of the total rise to the total width of a house, i.e., a 6-foot rise and 24-foot width is a one-fourth pitch roof. Roof slope is expressed in the inches of rise, per foot of horizontal run.

PITI - Principal, interest, taxes and insurance (the four major components of monthly housing payments).

Plan view - Drawing of a structure with the view from overhead, looking down.

Plate - Normally a 2 X 4 or 2 X 6 that lays horizontally within a framed structure, such as:

      Sill plate - A horizontal member anchored to a concrete or masonry wall.

      Sole plate - Bottom horizontal member of a frame wall.

      Top plate - Top horizontal member of a frame wall supporting ceiling joists, rafters, or other members.

Plenum - The main hot-air supply duct leading from a furnace.

Plot plan - An overhead view plan that shows the location of the home on the lot. Includes all easements, property lines, set backs, and legal descriptions of the home. Provided by the surveyor.

Plough, plow - To cut a lengthwise groove in a board or plank. An exterior handrail normally has a ploughed groove for hand gripping purposes.

Plumb - Exactly vertical and perpendicular.

Plumb bob - A lead weight attached to a string. It is the tool used in determining plumb.

Plumbing boots - Metal saddles used to strengthen a bearing wall/vertical stud(s) where a plumbing drain line has been cut through and installed.

Plumbing ground - The plumbing drain and waste lines that are installed beneath a basement floor.

Plumbing jacks - Sleeves that fit around drain and waste vent pipes at, and are nailed to, the roof sheeting.

Plumbing rough - Work performed by the plumbing contractor after the Rough Heat is installed. This work includes installing all plastic ABS drain and waste lines, copper water lines, bath tubs, shower pans, and gas piping to furnaces and fireplaces. Lead solder should not be used on copper piping.

Plumbing stack - A plumbing vent pipe that penetrates the roof.

Plumbing trim - Work performed by the plumbing contractor to get the home ready for a final plumbing inspection. Includes installing all toilets (water closets), hot water heaters, sinks, connecting all gas pipe to appliances, disposal, dishwasher, and all plumbing items.

Plumbing waste line - Plastic pipe used to collect and drain sewage waste.

Ply - A term to denote the number of layers of roofing felt, veneer in plywood, or layers in built-up materials, in any finished piece of such material.

Plywood - A panel (normally 4' X 8') of wood made of three or more layers of veneer, compressed and joined with glue, and usually laid with the grain of adjoining plies at right angles to give the sheet strength.

Point load - A point where a bearing/structural weight is concentrated and transferred to the foundation.

Portland cement - Cement made by heating clay and crushed limestone into a brick and then grinding to a pulverized powder state.

Post - A vertical framing member usually designed to carry a beam. Often a 4" x 4", a 6" x 6", or a metal pipe with a flat plate on top and bottom.

Post-and-beam - A basic building method that uses just a few hefty posts and beams to support an entire structure. Contrasts with stud framing.

Power vent - A vent that includes a fan to speed up air flow.  Often installed on roofs.

Premium - Amount payable on a loan.

Preservative - Any pesticide substance that, for a reasonable length of time, will prevent the action of wood-destroying fungi, insect borers, and similar destructive agents when the wood has been properly coated or impregnated with it. Normally an arsenic derivative. Chromated Copper Arsenate (CCA) is an example.

Pressure Relief Valve (PRV) - A device mounted on a hot water heater or boiler which is designed to release any high steam pressure in the tank to prevent tank explosions.

Pressure treated wood - Lumber that has been saturated with a preservative.

Primer - The first, base coat of paint when a paint job consists of two or more coats. A first coating formulated to seal raw surfaces and holding succeeding finish coats.

Principal - The original amount of the loan, the capital.

Property survey - A survey to determine the boundaries of your property. The cost depends on the complexity of the survey.

P trap - Curved, "U" section of drain pipe that holds a water seal to prevent sewer gasses from entering the home through a fixtures water drain.

Pump mix - Special concrete that will be used in a concrete pump. Generally, the mix has smaller rock aggregate than regular mix.

Punch list - A list of discrepancies that need to be corrected by the contractor.

Punch out - To inspect and make a discrepancy list.

Putty - A type of dough used in sealing glass in the sash, filling small holes and crevices in wood, and for similar purposes.

PVC or CPVC - Poly Vinyl Chloride-A type of white or light gray plastic pipe sometimes used for water supply lines and waste pipe.

Q

Quarry tile - A man-made or machine-made clay tile used to finish a floor or wall. Generally 6" X  6"  X 1/4" thick.

Quarter round - A small trim molding that has the cross section of a quarter circle.

R

Rabbet - A rectangular longitudinal groove cut in the corner edge of a board or plank.

Radiant heating - A method of heating, usually consisting of a forced hot water system with pipes placed in the floor, wall, or ceiling.  Also electrically heated panels.

Radiation - Energy transmitted from a heat source to the air around it. Radiators actually depend more on convection than radiation.

Radon - A naturally-occurring, heavier than air, radioactive gas common in many parts of the country.  Radon gas exposure is associated with lung cancer. Mitigation measures may involve crawl space and basement venting and various forms of vapor barriers.

Radon system - A ventilation system beneath the floor of a basement and/or structural wood floor and designed to fan exhaust radon gas to the outside of the home.

Rafter - Lumber used to support the roof sheeting and roof loads. Generally, 2 X 10's and 2 X 12's are used. The rafters of a flat roof are sometimes called roof joists.

Rafter, hip - A rafter that forms the intersection of an external roof angle.

Rafter, valley - A rafter that forms the intersection of an internal roof angle. The valley rafter is normally made of double 2-inch-thick members.

Rail - Cross members of panel doors or of a sash. Also, a wall or open balustrade placed at the edge of a staircase, walkway bridge, or elevated surface to prevent people from falling off.  Any relatively lightweight horizontal element, especially those found in fences (split rail).

Railroad tie - Black, tar and preservative impregnated, 6" X 8" and 6'-8' long wooden timber that was used to hold railroad track in place. Normally used as a member of a retaining wall.

Rake - Slope or slanted.

Rake fascia - The vertical face of the sloping end of a roof eave.

Rake siding - The practice of installing lap siding diagonally.

Ranch - A single story, one level home.

Ready mixed concrete - Concrete mixed at a plant or in trucks en route to a job and delivered ready for placement.

Rebar, reinforcing bar - Ribbed steel bars installed in foundation concrete walls, footers, and poured in place concrete structures designed to strengthen concrete. Comes in various thicknesses and strength grade.

Receptacle - An electrical outlet.  A typical household will have many 120 volt receptacles for plugging in lams and appliances and 240 volt receptacles for the range, clothes dryer, air conditioners, etc.

Recording fee - A charge for recording the transfer of a property, paid to a city, county, or other appropriate branch of government.

Redline, red lined prints - Blueprints that reflect changes and that are marked with red pencil.

Reducer - A fitting with different size openings at either end and used to go from a larger to a smaller pipe.

Reflective insulation - Sheet material with one or both faces covered with aluminum foil.

Refrigerant - A substance that remains a gas at low temperatures and pressure and can be used to transfer heat. Freon is an example and is used in air conditioning systems.

Register - A grill placed over a heating duct or cold air return.

Reglaze - To replace a broken window.

Relief valve - A device designed to open if it detects excess temperature or pressure.

Remote - Remote electrical, gas, or water meter digital readouts that are installed near the front of the home in order for utility companies to easily read the home owners usage of the service.

Retaining wall - A structure that holds back a slope and prevents erosion.

Retentions - Amounts withheld from progress billings until final and satisfactory project completion.

R factor or value - A measure of a materials resistance to the passage of heat. New home walls are usually insulated with 4" of batt insulation with an R value of R-13, and a ceiling insulation of R-30.

Ribbon (girt) - Normally a 1 X 4 board let into the studs horizontally to support the ceiling or second-floor joists.

Ridge - The horizontal line at the junction of the top edges of two sloping roof surfaces.

Ridge board - The board placed on the ridge of the roof onto which the upper ends of other rafters are fastened.

Ridge shingles - Shingles used to cover the ridge board.

Rim joist - A joist that runs around the perimeter of the floor joists and home.

Rise - The vertical distance from the eaves line to the ridge. Also the vertical distance from stair tread to stair tread (and not to exceed 7 ½").

Riser - Each of the vertical boards closing the spaces between the treads of stairways.

Riser and panel - The exterior vertical pipe (riser) and metal electric box (panel) the electrician provides and installs at the "Rough Electric" stage.

Road base - An aggregate mixture of sand and stone.

Rock 1, 2, 3 - When referring to drywall, this means to install drywall to the walls and ceilings (with nails and screws), and before taping is performed.

Roll, rolling - To install the floor joists or trusses in their correct place. (To "roll the floor" means to install the floor joists).

Romex - A name brand of nonmetallic sheathed electrical cable that is used for indoor wiring.

Roll roofing - Asphalt roofing products manufactured in roll form. 36-inch wide rolls with and 108 square feet of material. Weights are generally 45 to 90 pounds per roll.

Romex - A name brand of nonmetallic sheathed electrical cable that is used for indoor wiring.

Roof jack - Sleeves that fit around the black plumbing waste vent pipes at, and are nailed to, the roof sheeting.

Roof joist - The rafters of a flat roof. Lumber used to support the roof sheeting and roof loads. Generally, 2 X 10's and 2 X 12's are used.

Roof sheathing or sheeting - The wood panels or sheet material fastened to the roof rafters or trusses on which the shingle or other roof covering is laid.

Roof valley - The "V" created where two sloping roofs meet.

Rough opening - The horizontal and vertical measurement of a window or door opening before drywall or siding is installed.

Rough sill - The framing member at the bottom of a rough opening for a window. It is attached to the cripple studs below the rough opening.

Roughing-in - The initial stage of a plumbing, electrical, heating, carpentry, and/or other project, when all components that won't be seen after the second finishing phase are assembled. See also Heat Rough, Plumbing Rough, and Electrical Rough.

Run, roof - The horizontal distance from the eaves to a point directly under the ridge. One half the span.

Run, stair - the horizontal distance of a stair tread from the nose to the riser.

R Value - A measure of insulation. A measure of a materials resistance to the passage of heat. The higher the R value, the more insulating "power" it has. For example, typical new home's walls are usually insulated with 4" of batt insulation with an R value of R-13, and a ceiling insulation of R-30.

S

Saddle - A small second roof built behind the back side of a fireplace chimney to divert water around the chimney. Also, the plate at the bottom of some—usually exterior—door openings. Sometimes called a threshold.

Sack mix - The amount of Portland cement in a cubic yard of concrete mix. Generally, 5 or 6 sack is required in a foundation wall.

Service entrance panel - Main power cabinet where electricity enters a home wiring system.

Service equipment - Main control gear at the service entrance, such as circuit breakers, switches, and fuses.

Service lateral - Underground power supply line.

Setback Thermostat - A thermostat with a clock which can be programmed to come on or go off at various temperatures and at different times of the day/week. Usually used as the heating or cooling system thermostat.

Settlement - Shifts in a structure, usually caused by freeze-thaw cycles underground.

Sewage ejector - A pump used to 'lift' waste water to a gravity sanitary sewer line. Usually used in basements and other locations which are situated bellow the level of the side sewer.

Sewer lateral - The portion of the sanitary sewer which connects the interior waste water lines to the main sewer lines. The side sewer is usually buried in several feet of soil and runs from the house to the sewer line. It is usually 'owned' by the sewer utility, must be maintained by the owner and may only be serviced by utility approved contractors. Sometimes called side sewer.

Sewer stub - The junction at the municipal sewer system where the home's sewer line is connected.

Sewer tap - The physical connection point where the home's sewer line connects to the main municipal sewer line.

Shake - A wood roofing material, normally cedar or redwood. Produced by splitting a block of the wood along the grain line. Modern shakes are sometimes machine sawn on one side. See shingle.

Shear block - Plywood that is face nailed to short (2 X 4's or 2 X 6's) wall studs (above a door or window, for example). This is done to prevent the wall from sliding and collapsing.

Sheathing, sheeting - The structural wood panel covering, usually OSB or plywood, used over studs, floor joists or rafters/trusses of a structure.

Shed roof - A roof containing only one sloping plane.

Sheet metal work - All components of a house employing sheet metal, such as flashing, gutters, and downspouts.

Sheet metal duct work - The heating system. Usually round or rectangular metal pipes and sheet metal (for Return Air) and installed for distributing warm (or cold) air from the furnace to rooms in the home.

Sheet rock - Drywall-Wall board or gypsum- A manufactured panel made out of gypsum plaster and encased in a thin cardboard. Usually 1/2" thick and 4' x 8' or 4' x 12' in size. The 'joint compound'. 'Green board' type drywall has a greater resistance to moisture than regular (white) plasterboard and is used in bathrooms and other "wet areas".

Shim - A small piece of scrap lumber or shingle, usually wedge shaped, which when forced behind a furring strip or framing member forces it into position. Also used when installing doors and placed between the door jamb legs and 2 X 4 door trimmers. Metal shims are wafer 1 1/2" X 2" sheet metal of various thicknesses used to fill gaps in wood framing members, especially at bearing point locations.

Shingles - Roof covering of asphalt. Asbestos, wood, tile, slate, or other material cut to stock lengths, widths, and thicknesses.

Shingles, siding - Various kinds of shingles, used over sheathing for exterior wall covering of a structure.

Short circuit - A situation that occurs when hot and neutral wires come in contact with each other. Fuses and circuit breakers protect against fire that could result from a short.

Shutter - Usually lightweight louvered decorative frames in the form of doors located on the sides of a window. Some shutters are made to close over the window for protection.

Side sewer - The portion of the sanitary sewer which connects the interior waste water lines to the main sewer lines. The side sewer is usually buried in several feet of soil and runs from the house to the sewer line. It is usually 'owned' by the sewer utility, must be maintained by the owner and may only be serviced by utility approved contractors. Sometimes called sewer lateral.

Siding - The finished exterior covering of the outside walls of a frame building.

Siding (lap siding) - Slightly wedge-shaped boards used as horizontal siding in a lapped pattern over the exterior sheathing. Varies in butt thickness from ½ to ¾ inch and in widths up to 12".

Sill - (1) The 2 X 4 or 2 X 6 wood plate framing member that lays flat against and bolted to the foundation wall (with anchor bolts) and upon which the floor joists are installed. Normally the sill plate is treated lumber. (2) The member forming the lower side of an opening, as a door sill or window sill.

Sill cock - An exterior water faucet (hose bib).

Sill plate (mudsill) - Bottom horizontal member of an exterior wall frame which rests on top a foundation, sometimes called mudsill. Also sole plate, bottom member of an interior wall frame.

Sill seal - Fiberglass or foam insulation installed between the foundation wall and sill (wood) plate. Designed to seal any cracks or gaps.

Single hung window - A window with one vertically sliding sash or window vent.

Skylight - A more or less horizontal window located on the roof of a building.

Slab, concrete - Concrete pavement, i.e. driveways, garages, and basement floors.

Slab, door - A rectangular door without hinges or frame.

Slab on grade - A type of foundation with a concrete floor which is placed directly on the soil. The edge of the slab is usually thicker and acts as the footing for the walls.

Slag - Concrete cement that sometimes covers the vertical face of the foundation void material.

Sleeper - Usually, a wood member embedded in concrete, as in a floor, that serves to support and to fasten the subfloor or flooring.

Sleeve(s) - Pipe installed under the concrete driveway or sidewalk, and that will be used later to run sprinkler pipe or low voltage wire.

Slope - The incline angle of a roof surface, given as a ratio of the rise (in inches) to the run (in feet). See also pitch.

Slump - The "wetness" of concrete. A 3 inch slump is dryer and stiffer than a 5 inch slump.

Soffit - The area below the eaves and overhangs. The underside where the roof overhangs the walls. Usually the underside of an overhanging cornice.

Soil pipe - A large pipe that carries liquid and solid wastes to a sewer or septic tank.

Soil stack - A plumbing vent pipe that penetrates the roof.

Sole plate - The bottom, horizontal framing member of a wall that's attached to the floor sheeting and vertical wall studs.

Solid bridging - A solid member placed between adjacent floor joists near the center of the span to prevent joists or rafters from twisting.

Sonotube - Round, large cardboard tubes designed to hold wet concrete in place until it hardens.

Sound attenuation - Sound proofing a wall or subfloor, generally with fiberglass insulation.

Space heat - Heat supplied to the living space, for example, to a room or the living area of a building.

Spacing - The distance between individual members or shingles in building construction.

Span - The clear distance that a framing member carries a load without support between structural supports. The horizontal distance from eaves to eaves.

Spec home - A house built before it is sold. The builder speculates that he can sell it at a profit.

Specifications or Specs - A narrative list of materials, methods, model numbers, colors, allowances, and other details which supplement the information contained in the blue prints. Written elaboration in specific detail about construction materials and methods. Written to supplement working drawings.

Splash block - Portable concrete (or vinyl) channel generally placed beneath an exterior sill cock (water faucet) or downspout in order to receive roof drainage from downspouts and to divert it away from the building.

Square - A unit of measure - 100 square feet - usually applied to roofing and siding material. Also, a situation that exists when two elements are at right angles to each other. Also a tool for checking this.

Square-tab shingles - Shingles on which tabs are all the same size and exposure.

Squeegie - Fine pea gravel used to grade a floor (normally before concrete is placed).

Stack (trusses) - To position trusses on the walls in their correct location.

Standard practices of the trade(s) - One of the more common basic and minimum construction standards. This is another way of saying that the work should be done in the way it is normally done by the average professional in the field.

Starter strip - Asphalt roofing applied at the eaves that provides protection by filling in the spaces under the cutouts and joints of the first course of shingles.

Stair carriage or stringer - Supporting member for

stair treads. Usually a 2 X 12 inch plank notched to receive the treads; sometimes called a "rough horse."

Stair landing - A platform between flights of stairs or at the termination of a flight of stairs. Often used when stairs change direction. Normally no less than 3 ft. X 3 ft. square.

Stair rise - The vertical distance from stair tread to stair tread (and not to exceed 7 ½").

Static vent - A vent that does not include a fan.

STC (Sound Transmission Class) - The measure of sound stopping of ordinary noise.

Steel inspection - A municipal and/or engineer’s inspection of the concrete foundation wall, conducted before concrete is poured into the foundation panels. Done to insure that the rebar (reinforcing bar), rebar nets, void material, beam pocket plates, and basement window bucks are installed and wrapped with rebar and complies with the foundation plan.

Step flashing - Flashing application method used where a vertical surface meets a sloping roof plane. 6" X 6" galvanized metal bent at a 90 degree angle, and installed beneath siding and over the top of shingles. Each piece overlaps the one beneath it the entire length of the sloping roof (step by step).

Stick built - A house built without prefabricated parts. Also called conventional building.

Stile - An upright framing member in a panel door.

Stool - The flat molding fitted over the window sill between jambs and contacting the bottom rail of the lower sash.  Also another name for toilet.

Stop box - Normally a cast iron pipe with a lid (@ 5" in diameter) that is placed vertically into the ground, situated near the water tap in the yard, and where a water cut-off valve to the home is located (underground). A long pole with a special end is inserted into the curb stop to turn off/on the water.

Stop Order - A formal, written notification to a contractor to discontinue some or all work on a project for reasons such as safety violations, defective materials or workmanship, or cancellation of the contract.

Stops - Moldings along the inner edges of a door or window frame. Also valves used to shut off water to a fixture.

Stop valve - A device installed in a water supply line, usually near a fixture, that permits an individual to shut off the water supply to one fixture without interrupting service to the rest of the system.

Storm sash or storm window - An extra window usually placed outside of an existing one, as

additional protection against cold weather.

Storm sewer - A sewer system designed to collect storm water and is separated from the waste water system.

Story - That part of a building between any floor or between the floor and roof.

Strike - The plate on a door frame that engages a latch or dead bolt.

String, stringer - A timber or other support for cross members in floors or ceilings. In stairs, the supporting member for stair treads. Usually a 2 X 12 inch plank notched to receive the treads.

Strip flooring - Wood flooring consisting of narrow, matched strips.

Structural floor - A framed lumber floor that is installed as a basement floor instead of concrete. This is done on very expansive soils.

Stub, stubbed - To push through.

Stucco - Refers to an outside plaster finish made with Portland cement as its base.

Stud - A vertical wood framing member, also referred to as a wall stud, attached to the horizontal sole plate below and the top plate above. Normally 2 X 4's or 2 X 6's, 8' long (sometimes 92 5/8"). One of a series of wood or metal vertical structural members placed as supporting elements in walls and partitions.

Stud framing - A building method that distributes structural loads to each of a series of relatively lightweight studs. Contrasts with post-and-beam.

Stud shoe - A metal, structural bracket that reinforces a vertical stud. Used on an outside bearing wall where holes are drilled to accommodate a plumbing waste line.

Subfloor - The framing components of a floor to include the sill plate, floor joists, and deck sheeting over which a finish floor is to be laid.

Sump - Pit or large plastic bucket/barrel inside the home designed to collect ground water from a perimeter drain system.

Sump pump - A submersible pump in a sump pit that pumps any excess ground water to the outside of the home.

Suspended ceiling - A ceiling system supported by hanging it from the overhead structural framing.

Sway brace - Metal straps or wood blocks installed diagonally on the inside of a wall from bottom to top plate, to prevent the wall from twisting, racking, or falling over "domino" fashion.

Switch - A device that completes or disconnects an electrical circuit.

T

T & G, tongue and groove - A joint made by a tongue (a rib on one edge of a board) that fits into a corresponding groove in the edge of another board to make a tight flush joint. Typically, the subfloor plywood is T & G.

Tab - The exposed portion of strip shingles defined by cutouts.

Tail beam - A relatively short beam or joist supported in a wall on one end and by a header at the other.

Take off - The material necessary to complete a job.

Taping - The process of covering drywall joints with paper tape and joint compound.

T bar - Ribbed, "T" shaped bars with a flat metal plate at the bottom that are driven into the earth. Normally used chain link fence poles, and to mark locations of a water meter pit.

Teco - Metal straps that are nailed and secure the roof rafters and trusses to the top horizontal wall plate. Sometimes called a hurricane clip.

Tee - A "T" shaped plumbing fitting.

Tempered - Strengthened. Tempered glass will not shatter nor create shards, but will "pelletize" like an automobile window. Required in tub and shower enclosures and locations, entry door glass and sidelight glass, and in a windows when the window sill is less than 16" to the floor.

Termites - Wood eating insects that superficially resemble ants in size and general appearance, and live in colonies.

Termite shield - A shield, usually of galvanized metal, placed in or on a foundation wall or around pipes to prevent the passage of termites.

Terra cotta - A ceramic material molded into masonry units.

Thermoply ™ - Exterior laminated sheathing nailed to the exterior side of the exterior walls. Normally ¼ " thick, 4 X 8 or 4 x 10 sheets with an aluminumized surface.

Thermostat - A device which relegates the temperature of a room or building by switching heating or cooling equipment on or off.

Three-dimensional shingles - Laminated shingles. Shingles that have added dimensionality because of extra layers or tabs, giving a shake-like appearance. May also be called "architectural shingles".

Threshold - The bottom metal or wood plate of an exterior door frame. Generally they are adjustable to keep a tight fit with the door slab.

Time and materials contract - A construction contract which specifies a price for different elements of the work such as cost per hour of labor, overhead, profit, etc. A contract which may not have a maximum price, or may state a 'price not to exceed'.

Tinner - Another name for the heating contractor.

Tip up - The downspout extension that directs water (from the home's gutter system) away from the home. They typically swing up when mowing the lawn, etc.

Title - Evidence (usually in the form of a certificate or deed) of a person's legal right to ownership of a property.

TJI or TJ - Manufactured structural building component resembling the letter "I". Used as floor joists and rafters. I-joists include two key parts: flanges and webs. The flange or from of the I joist may be made of laminated veneer lumber or dimensional lumber, usually formed into a 1 ½" width. The web or center of the I-joist is commonly made of plywood or oriented strand board (OSB). Large holes can be cut in the web to accommodate duct work and plumbing waste lines. I-joists are available in lengths up to 60'' long.

Toe nailing - To drive a nail in at a slant. Method used to secure floor joists to the plate.

Top chord - The upper or top member of a truss.

Top plate - Top horizontal member of a frame wall supporting ceiling joists, rafters, or other members.

Transmitter (garage door) - The small, push button device that causes the garage door to open or close.

Trap - A plumbing fitting that holds water to prevent air, gas, and vermin from backing up into a fixture.

Tread - The walking surface board in a stairway on which the foot is placed.

Treated lumber - A wood product which has been impregnated with chemical pesticides such as CCA (Chromated Copper Arsenate) to reduce damage from wood rot or insects. Often used for the portions of a structure which are likely to be in contact with soil and water. Wood may also be treated with a fire retardant.

Trim (plumbing, heating, electrical) - The work that the "mechanical" contractors perform to finish their respective aspects of work, and when the home is nearing completion and occupancy.

Trim, Interior - The finish materials in a building, such as moldings applied around openings (window trim, door trim) or at the floor and ceiling of rooms (baseboard, cornice, and other moldings). Also, the physical work of installing interior doors and interior woodwork, to include all handrails, guardrails, stair way balustrades, mantles, light boxes, base, door casings, cabinets, countertops, shelves, window sills and aprons, etc. Exterior- The finish materials on the exterior a building, such as moldings applied around openings (window trim, door trim), siding, windows, exterior doors, attic vents, crawl space vents, shutters, etc. Also, the physical work of installing these materials

Trimmer - The vertical stud that supports a header at a door, window, or other opening.

Truss - An engineered and manufactured roof support member with "zig-zag" framing members. Does the same job as a rafter but is designed to have a longer span than a rafter.

Tub trap - Curved, "U" shaped section of a bath tub drain pipe that holds a water seal to prevent sewer gasses from entering the home through tubs water drain.

Turnkey - A term used when the subcontractor provides all materials (and labor) for a job.

Turpentine - A petroleum, volatile oil used as a thinner in paints and as a solvent in varnishes.

U

UL (Underwriters' Laboratories) - An independent testing agency that checks electrical devices and other components for possible safety hazards.

Undercoat - A coating applied prior to the finishing or top coats of a paint job. It may be the first of two or the second of three coats. Sometimes called the Prime coat.

Underground plumbing - The plumbing drain and waste lines that are installed beneath a basement floor.

Underlayment - A ¼" material placed over the subfloor plywood sheeting and under finish coverings, such as vinyl flooring, to provide a smooth, even surface. Also a secondary roofing layer that is waterproof or water-resistant, installed on the roof deck and beneath shingles or other roof-finishing layer.

Union - A plumbing fitting that joins pipes end-to-end so they can be dismantled.

Utility easement - The area of the earth that has electric, gas, or telephone lines. These areas may be owned by the homeowner, but the utility company has the legal right to enter the area as necessary to repair or service the lines.

V

Valley - The "V" shaped area of a roof where two sloping roofs meet. Water drains off the roof at the valleys.

Valley flashing - Sheet metal that lays in the "V" area of a roof valley.

Valuation - An inspection carried out for the benefit of the mortgage lender to ascertain if a property is a good security for a loan.

Valuation fee - The fee paid by the prospective borrower for the lender's inspection of the property. Normally paid upon loan application.

Vapor barrier - A building product installed on exterior walls and ceilings under the drywall and on the warm side of the insulation. It is used to retard the movement of water vapor into walls and prevent condensation within them. Normally, polyethylene plastic sheeting is used.

Variable rate - An interest rate that will vary over the term of the loan.

Veneer - Extremely thin sheets of wood. Also a thin slice of wood or brick or stone covering a framed wall.

Vent - A pipe or duct which allows the flow of air and gasses to the outside. Also, another word for the moving glass part of a window sash, i.e. window vent.

Vermiculite - A mineral used as bulk insulation and also as aggregate in insulating and acoustical plaster and in insulating concrete floors.

Veterans Administration (VA) - A federal agency that insures mortgage loans with very liberal down payment requirements for honorably discharged veterans and their surviving spouses.

Visqueen - A 4 mil or 6 mil plastic sheeting.

Void - Cardboard rectangular boxes that are installed between the earth (between caissons) and the concrete foundation wall. Used when expansive soils are present.

Voltage - A measure of electrical potential. Most homes are wired with 110 and 220 volt lines. The 110 volt power is used for lighting and most of the other circuits. The 220 volt power is usually used for the kitchen range, hot water heater and dryer.

W

Wafer board - A manufactured wood panel made out of 1"- 2" wood chips and glue. Often used as a substitute for plywood in the exterior wall and roof sheathing.

Walk-Through - A final inspection of a home before "Closing" to look for and document problems that need to be corrected.

Wall out - When a painter pray paints the interior of a home.

Warping - Any distortion in a material.

Warranty - In construction there are two general types of warranties. One is provided by the manufacturer of a product such as roofing material or an appliance. The second is a warranty for the labor. For example, a roofing contract may include a 20 year material warranty and a 5 year labor warranty. Many new homebuilders provide a one year warranty. Any major issue found during the first year should be communicated to the builder immediately. Small items can be saved up and presented to the builder for correction periodically through the first year after closing.

Waste pipe and vent - Plumbing plastic pipe that carries waste water to the municipal sewage system.

Water board - Water resistant drywall to be used in tub and shower locations. Normally green or blue colored

Water closet - Another name for toilet.

Water meter pit (or vault) - The box /cast iron bonnet and concrete rings that contains the water meter.

Water-repellent preservative - A liquid applied to wood to give the wood water repellant properties

Water table - The location of the underground water, and the vertical distance from the surface of the earth to this underground water.

Water tap - The connection point where the home water line connects to the main municipal water system.

WC - An abbreviation for water closet (toilet).

Weatherization - Work on a building exterior in order to reduce energy consumption for heating or cooling.  Work involving adding insulation, installing storm windows and doors, caulking cracks and putting on weather-stripping.

Weather strip - Narrow sections of thin metal or other material installed to prevent the infiltration of air and moisture around windows and doors.

Weep holes - Small holes in storm window frames that allow moisture to escape.

Whole house fan - A fan designed to move air through and out of a home and normally installed in the ceiling.

Wind bracing - Metal straps or wood blocks installed diagonally on the inside of a wall from bottom to top plate, to prevent the wall from twisting, racking, or falling over "domino" fashion.

Window buck - Square or rectangular box that is installed within a concrete foundation or block wall. A window will eventually be installed in this "buck" during the siding stage of construction.

Window frame - The stationary part of a window unit; window sash fits into the window frame.

Window sash - The operating or movable part of a window; the sash is made of window panes and their border.

Wire nut - A plastic device used to connect bare wires together.

Wonderboard ™ - A panel made out of concrete and fiberglass usually used as a ceramic tile backing material. Commonly used on bathtub decks.

Wrapped drywall - Areas that get complete drywall covering, as in the doorway openings of bifold and bipass closet doors.

Y

Y - A "Y" shaped plumbing fitting.

Yard of concrete - One cubic yard of concrete is 3' X 3' X 3' in volume, or 27 cubic feet.  One cubic yard of concrete will pour 80 square feet of 3 ½" sidewalk or basement/garage floor.

Yoke - The location where a home's water meter is sometimes installed between two copper pipes, and located in the water meter pit in the yard.

Z-bar flashing - Bent, galvanized metal flashing that's installed above a horizontal trim board of an exterior window, door, or brick run. It prevents water from getting behind the trim/brick and into the home.

Zone - The section of a building that is served by one heating or cooling loop because it has noticeably distinct heating or cooling needs. Also, the section of property that will be watered from a lawn sprinkler system.

Zone valve - A device, usually placed near the heater or cooler, which controls the flow of water or steam to parts of the building; it is controlled by a zone thermostat.

Zoning - A governmental process and specification which limits the use of a property e.g. single family use, high rise residential use, industrial use, etc. Zoning laws may limit where you can locate a structure. Also see building codes.

Spazio LA does not endorse or provide any validity to the definitions or terms herein.

Stop Ignoring your Master Bedroom: Master bedroom remodeling 2016

Stop Ignoring your Master Bedroom Swoon over these master bedroom remodel ideas during the month of love.  Updating your master bedroom can not only create a person retreat after a long day at work but also add value to your home. When designing this space you will want a place to relax, show your style, and rejuvenate for the following day that is always ahead of you. Why do you want to remodel your master bedroom?

1. Tired of the same old color scheme or theme.

2. Change in family situation. (Adding a place for a newborn for instance)

3. Wanted an ensuite master bathroom.

• The bedroom is the least expensive room to remodel, but it can still be a return investment. You can get nearly 30% return investment on a master bedroom remodel.

You may be remodeling your master bedroom for a number of reasons, but you will want to plan for the best outcome to potentially give you a return investment in the event you sell your home as described above.

Trending Master Bedroom Ideas

2016 master bedroom remodels are proving to hold extra-large, custom walk in closets and extra-large attached bathrooms. As the years go on we accumulate more and more clothes and shoes, especially guilty are the wives, closet space is always an issue. Now you can stop taking up every closet in the house and bring everything together in one awesome custom closet.  Ensuite master bathrooms are always high in demand, but this year you can bet your last dollar that they will be over the top and possibly bigger than usual.

Guest bathroom remodeling decoded

Guest bathroom remodeling decoded When designing a guest bathroom you should think of comfort over style, or is it style over comfort? How about you get both with a custom bathroom design! Don't lose out on a great looking bathroom for the fact of comfort, get both all in one space.

How to achieve a great guest bathroom?

1. Style and Paint color:  Think of the style you are trying to achieve before you set your heart on a paint color. Is this bathroom going to be styled after the Zen theme, modern, contemporary, spa like,  or are you completely lost? Get a feel for the style you want to create with this space, try getting your favorite bathroom pictures and inspiration together and pinning down what you like and don't like.

2. Layout/Design: Do you want or have space for a full tub and shower? Double vanity?  You will need to carefully consider your budget and what you are wishing to do with this guest bathroom. If you have a view from the bathroom you will want to postion the bath in front of this to make for a peaceful bath experience. Proper ventilation is very important, heat and moisture can lead to mildew and mold growth. The trick is to blend a bathroom design that appeals to you with the needs of future guests. "Make it as big and as roomy as you can," says Kristen Zwick, designer with Kitchens by Teipen in Greenwood, Ind.

3. Lighting: You may opt for a glorious  crystal chandelier for the master bathroom, but your budget may only allow for certain lighting. If you are on a tight budget, don't over look bargain or second hand lighting fixtures. Mirrors can add reflect lighting in a darker space and add the illusion of more room.

4. Storage: A small linen closet stocked with extra necessities like towels and tissue, a drawer or two where guests can stash their personal items, a few hooks to provide a handy spot for hanging clothes and towels, and a hamper for used linens can make guests feel at home.

5. Accessories: After construction wraps up, dress up a basic bath is with accessories. Splurge on thick, soft towels and hang a cozy bathrobe on a hook. Provide an assortment of French-milled soaps, a fragrant candle and a carafe of water with a glass for a welcoming touch.

6. Materials: No matter if you are going with Eco friendly or not, materials of choice matter.  You will need to find materials that are durable, moisture resistant and safe for the bathroom. We have talked about carpet in the bathroom before and this is still a no no.

Create a great kids room that isn’t a hazard to your mood

Create a great kids room that isn’t a hazard to your mood When it comes to planning the kids’ room always starts from the idea that the approach should be totally different than when decorating an adult bedroom. That’s because children’s bedrooms should reflect their personality and not that of their parents. You may like red and gold, but your children may want something bright and colorful. For children, the bedroom is the place to play, read, listen to music, and expose their valuables, day-dream or retreat to be alone for a while.

Paint

Start with painting a room before you go out and buy furniture and accents. It is much easier to pain first; otherwise you may be repainting when you find that nothing matches or flows. “Going too bold with a kids' room can be a mistake, though. You want to play around with a combination of bold colors and subtler accents to create a room where your child can feel awake and alive but still get relaxed enough to sleep at night.” – Kathryn, Houzz Pro.

First of all let's think about the main activities that go on in bedrooms and how they should inform the design.  Sleeping, dressing, playing and studying.

Sleeping

When children (and indeed everyone) get into bed they want to feel safe and cozy.

A headboard goes a long way to promoting these feelings.  If the bed is against a wall it can be fun if the headboard goes round the side and along the length of the bed.  This is also a bonus if your child ever wants to read or study while sitting on the bed, or have friends into their bedroom as the bed effectively doubles as a sofa.

Dressing

Obviously to dress you need a wardrobe or closet and the space to dress.  Beyond that here are a few thoughts on dressing.

• Make sure there's privacy from the outside for getting dressed.  If you have young children you may want to consider putting in a translucent window treatment so that your kids don't have to remember to close the curtains, in order to keep things private every time they get dressed.

Playing

Now depending on the age of the child playing can mean very different things.  It might mean Hotwheels or dolls houses.  Getting older it might mean Lego or Miss World. Then at the tween and tween stage there might be hobbies to accommodate.  Whatever the age there's often other children involved be it play dates or more like a social club!

Playing needs space and storage.  I'll say it again.  Playing needs space and storage.  Storage, storage, storage.

Here's a few play ideas...

• To create space and storage consider installing bunk beds (even if the room is only for one child).

• Consider putting a few heavy duty hooks into the ceilings and/or walls (make sure these go into studs and not just plasterboard).  These can be used for quickly rigging up dens, hanging hammocks or hanging swinging shelves, how about a swing?

Studying

Study areas are most successful if they focus the mind by filtering out distractions.  A desk is great up against a wall (or room divider) so that there's somewhere for shelves and maybe a pin board.  If you can create a study alcove so that the desk has a kind of sheltered feeling with its own light source that would be a great place to study.

When you're playing with bedroom layouts don't forget to include a chair with the desk - make sure there's space for it and that it doesn't get in the way of any door swings.

Remember that this space is intended for your child, and should be able to represent their personality.

For more design tips, check back for our weekly blog.

Is stamped concrete a do-it-yourself project?

If you are looking for a great patio, but can’t seem to find the budget for expensive stone – consider Stamped Concrete! This is a great alternative choice and you won’t believe the options in color and design. Read through our article and decide if Stamped Concrete is right for your next remodel project.  

Is stamped concrete a do-it-yourself project? No matter how many projects you may have attempted as a do-it-yourself weekend warrior, stamped concrete is not your typical endeavor for the Los Angeles home owner. Of course, any professional will tell you it's a job better left to an experienced contractor. Professional concrete contractors know how difficult and time-sensitive a stamped concrete project can be, you only get one shot! They've also had the time and sometimes unfortunate circumstance to learn by trial and error a serious learning curve you or your budget may not be up for. Personally, I don’t want to learn by mistake when it comes to my time and money.

Why is stamped concrete a job for professionals? Here are a few of the main reasons why stamped concrete can be a challenging project for a do-it-yourselfer:

1. You only get one shot at this, once it dries there is no turning back or starting over. (unless you want to rip it all out and start over.)
2. Professionals know great tricks to get the job done right and done fast.
3. Concrete is not forgiving.

 

Now let’s get to the fun part, why you need a stamped concrete patio:

1. A stamped concrete patio gives you the look and texture of a stone patio for a lot less than the real thing — up to 50% less than the cost of natural slate or limestone.
2. Thanks to industry innovations, there are practically limitless design choices for decorative concrete. With the current dyes and stamps, it is often difficult to tell the difference between concrete and the much pricier stone and brick options.
3. Unlike natural stone and pavers, decorative concrete does not typically shift. Large areas typically incorporate sturdy rebar, to make it even stronger.

3 Money saving tips starting in your back yard

Money saving tips starting in your back yard Keeping your yard green and groomed can be quite the costly task. As with most tasks, a little bit of planning can lead to significant savings without sacrificing the quality of your yard.

Before you can save money you need to identify the purpose and goals of your yard. How do you want to use your yard? Do you want your lawn to just be a place for the kids and dog to play? Or are you trying to win awards, stand out to your Los Angeles neighbors, and are exemplify that botanical garden look? That decision determines your true path and how much money you’ll end up spending.

Regardless of what path you choose, there are various ways you can save money on landscaping:

1. Compost

Compost is the cream of the crop in money-saving landscaping tips.

It’s one of the best things you can use in a garden or lawn. Take your banana peels, apple cores, and other food scraps and throw them in a pile (or in a composting device). Add a little bit of water, and wait. The result is what many landscapers call black gold due to the variety of uses for the product.

You can use compost as a soil amendment instead of packaged top soil from the local garden center. You can put a few inches of compost down as mulch instead of buying bagged pine mulch. You can even sprinkle compost over your lawn and let it soak in and break down over time. Your lawn should look healthier as time goes on and you’ll save a ton of money. Tip: Grow your own garden to save money on produce.

2. Use Plants Native to Your Region

You make your gardening life more difficult when you attempt to landscape with plants that are foreign to your region of the country. They may look great – but they are not easy to upkeep.

Not sure which plants are native and which are foreign? As with the fertilizer, it helps to know a local resource that can guide your choices. Ask around at your local gardening store or to a green thumb neighbor.

Plus, by shopping at local small businesses, you support your community. That’s better than sending your dollars to a faceless mega corporation based in some other state.

3. Repair and Repaint Fencing before Replacing

Instead of replacing giant sections of fence, be smart and simply took some screws and a power drill and pushed the bent boards back in to place. Instead of ignoring the problem due to expense, find a frugal solution.

The same can be said for a fence with faded paint. If at least some of the wood is in good condition, don’t tear everything down and start over. That’s very expensive. Instead get some paint brushes and outdoor paint, and go to town. A fresh coat of paint can make an old fence look brand new and even add some protection.

Do you have any awesome money-saving landscaping tips to add to these ideas?

Clever ideas to spruce up your yard...before summer

We are lucky in Los Angeles, we get amazing weather year round, and the summers are even more beautiful! Is your backyard looking a little sad? Get these quick tips to help give your yard a overhaul before summer. A DIY Pergola is the perfect way to create a covered space for entertaining. There are many designs, which include open top as well as a completely covered. Add a hanging light fixture and some curtains and you have a dreamy backyard design.

Not much of a Green Thumb? Try adding no-maintenance rocks and gravel to your backyard retreat. Stepping it up a notch with different levels makes this rocky backyard not so boring. Gravel is also versatile, says Los Angeles landscape architect Mia Lehrer. It looks totally natural outside homes in the Italian, French, or English style, yet equally at ease around sprawling ranch houses and contemporary structures.

DIY Raised planter beds give your yard depth and give you the chance to grow healthy for your family. Check this great blog for easy to follow instructions. Tip for great raised planter beds: Build each wall separately, then fasten them together and put the bed into position. Raised-bed builders often sink posts into the ground for stability, either at the inside corners of the bed or halfway along the side walls. These help hold the bed in place, but can also reduce the outward pressure that a full bed exerts on the frame, which can dislodge the lumber after a single season. A cap railing that runs around the top of the bed ties everything together. Plus, it provides a handy place to set down gardening tools while working, or, when you're done, a seat to admire the fruits of your labor. Bed covers ward off insects and keep plants warm in cool weather.

Hardscape can really change the look and feel of your Los Angeles yard. Adding stairs, a steel stair case, and earth elements such as water and fire - create a backyard meant for a king or queen.

For a custom backyard design contact us today to get one specially designed.